Can't get my 250r to fire

[TheFontMaster]

Well I was messing with the wireing a little to get the kill switch hooked up, and I ended up not getting the kill switch hooked up, and it won't start. I spliced the kill switch into the ground wire first, and since that was the wrong way, I just replaced the ground wire so I didn't have any splices in it. Then I cut the rubb around the yellow/black wire to expose some wire because that is where I have to hook the kill switch wire into, but I did not cut through that wire. Now I am not running the stock stop switch, with the on/off, and light switches, and a kill switch was not ever wired in, and it would start and run normal even without those. I checked all the normal stuff, ground wire, it's getting gas, new plug, and I think the problem is that it isn't getting spark, but It sounds almost like it wants to start.

[rooster300ex]

Just recently my friend started messing with his light/kill switch, and he ended up with the same problem he couldn't get it to start back, he checked everything with an ohm meter and it was all bad he fried it some how. either your cdi is fried or your coil. just my opinion, there isn't much else it could be.

[TheFontMaster]

bump

[wilkin250r]

Have you actually LOOKED for spark?

[TheFontMaster]

No spark, and I have gone through all the connections atleast 2 or 3 times.

[wilkin250r]

Well, there are only a few components in the ignition system, it looks to me like you need to start eliminating your possibilities. It's either the stator, flywheel, wire harness (and/or kill switch), CDI, coil, or plug.

Time to start troubleshooting. Get your multi-meter and check the stator and wire harnesses first.

[TheFontMaster]

I know I can eliminate the spark plug, and the kill switch, the plug is new, and the kill switch isn't even hooked up. and I'm not running the factory stop switch with the on/off switch, and the light buttons.

What is a multimeter, where do I get one, and how would I use it?

[wilkin250r]

Any automotive store can sell you a multimeter. They are used to measure electrical properties, like voltage and resistance.

I'd recommend at least $20 to get a decent digital one, stay away from the $3.99 bin.

Your repair manual will outline the basic procedure for checking the wire harness, stator, and coil. These are very simple components, not much more than a couple coils of wire. Therefore, if the resistance reading is good, then they component is generally good.

[TheFontMaster]

Ok thank's, I'll pic one up in a couple days and we'll see how that goes.

[TheFontMaster]

I got the multimeter, but I have no idea which wires to hook it up to, the manual was no help. Where should I start to determin my problem, and what setting do I set the multimeter to?

[wilkin250r]

Do you have the genuine Honda manual, or a clymer manual?

I'll look in my Honda manual tonight and see if I can help you out with a procedure.

[wilkin250r]

In the meantime, tell me the brand and model number of your multimeter, so that I can look it up and walk you through the different settings.

[TheFontMaster]

Yea I have a Clymers, I'll get the brand and model of the multimeter when I gey home from school in about an hour.

[TheFontMaster]

Ok the closet thing to a brand name or model on this thing was Conduct Tite!, so here is a picture.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/fonty/Picture281.jpg

[wilkin250r]

That's fine, I can walk you through that meter.

However, I believe the clymer manual gives you meter settings. I have a genuine Honda manual for my 250r, but I have a clymer for the 250X, and it gives a complete walkthrough, even settings on the meter.

Do you know how to use the different settings on the meter?

I can help walk you through the procedure, if you get stuck. But the manual should lay it out pretty easy.

[TheFontMaster]

I found the stuff in the manual for how to test the CDI and the coil. I just don't know what settings the multimeter has to be set to. I haven't used one of these before, and I am by no means an electrical expert, I totaly suck at anything electrical.

[wilkin250r]

Not a problem.

When you get home, take a real close-up picture of your multimeter. I need to be able to read the numbers around the dial.

With that picture, I will explain the different settings to you. It's really easy, I'll even explain the theory behind it all. Before you know it, you'll be an electrical expert!

[TheFontMaster]

Ok here is a good pic of the multimeter I think. I got a couple more that might be better if you can't make out all the things on this one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/fonty/Picture285.jpg

[TheFontMaster]

I think this one might be better.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/fonty/Picture282.jpg

[JDiablo]

I usually put mine on 20 V

[DieselBoy]

did you sort it out?

[TheFontMaster]

Yup I got it all fixed good. It ended up being a loose wire.

[DieselBoy]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Yup I got it all fixed good. It ended up being a loose wire.

where was the loose wire? im so frustrated i can't get mine to run, it fires but it's just not consistant enough. it just quit and after that all it's been doing is POP, POP-POP.....POP....POP...

[TheFontMaster]

The yellow/black wire is what was loose where it hooked up to the coil. When I cut apart the wire to splice in the kill switch I pulled the rubber coating apart without cutting the wire, and it pulled the wire itself out of the connector that hooked to the coil. It gave me so much trouble because the wire looked like it was hooked up but really it wasn't.

As for your problem, it sounds like your getting a weak spark. Get a multimeter and run a test on your coil. First tho, get a new plug and gap it right. You would be surprised at how such a little thing can cause such a big problem.