Need new Oil Tank

[hawiianpwr]

I was changing the oil and went to try to loosen the bolt on the oil tank and it snapped right off.
Does anyone have any input on the different brands out there?



Thanks

[NacsMXer]

As a cheaper alternative, seeing as how most aftermarket tanks are in the $200 range, you could just take the tank to a person who can weld aluminum.

I snapped the bottom of my tank the same way you did and had it heliarc welded by a local boat shop. It's MUCH stronger and beefed up than it ever was in stock form. I would look into this option before throwing down the cash for a new tank ;)

[prepracing]

yeah that can be repaired pretty easy if u can find someone to do it, if not a used stock oil tank on ebay goes anywhere from $15 to $30 bucks. If you want to go with an aftermarket oversize oil tank Pingry racing makes a good one, also there are several others that are of different brands on ebay.

[jhoppa]

Been there, done that...

Now I use ANTI-SIEZE on all my plugs, oil filter bolts. Have not had a problem since.

[hawiianpwr]

Thats funny you bring that up. Because Im pretty bad on putting antiseize on just about everything with threads. But being it aready that it has oil on it I didnt think I'd have a problem with it.

The only reason I brought up an after market was because I wanted to get an idea on how they did on lowering the temperature. Especially the pingry with the extra quart and the open holes welded in it. Does anyone have a before and after temperature difference with going for stock to aftermarket oil tank?


Thanks

[hawiianpwr]

This looks pretty descent. The welds could look alittle cleaner though

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4574145984&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[400exrider707]

Holy cow those welds look like crap:eek2:

[Woodsrider]

Two words: CRUSH WASHER
The aluminum washer on the drain bolts are supposed to be replaced every time you change the oil. Every time you reuse those washers they get flatter, and it takes more torque to seal the drain bolt. Over time that weakens the area around the drain, leading to a failure.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by hawiianpwr
Thats funny you bring that up. Because Im pretty bad on putting antiseize on just about everything with threads. But being it aready that it has oil on it I didnt think I'd have a problem with it.

The only reason I brought up an after market was because I wanted to get an idea on how they did on lowering the temperature. Especially the pingry with the extra quart and the open holes welded in it. Does anyone have a before and after temperature difference with going for stock to aftermarket oil tank?


Thanks

A larger tank will obviously have more oil capacity than stock, but all it's going to do is create a larger medium for heat to disperse into. Bigger tank or not, all the oil will eventually reach the same temperature once operating temp is reached. So basically all a bigger tank will do is make the oil take longer to heat up to operating temp.

To actually lower operating temps, what you need is either a larger oil cooler like in my sig, or an auxilary cooler like the system offered from Mickey Dunlap at Four Stroke Tech. I'm still running the stock tank with my race motor because I really don't see the need for a larger tank; the larger oil cooler drops the temps drastically.

[jhoppa]

Crush washer yes, but steel bolt does not expand and contract like aluminum. That is why manufactures recommend anti-seize for all dis-similiar metals.

Another option is heat the aluminum with a torch and then loosen the bolts. Sometimes works....

Agree with NacsMXer about the oil tank. Another oil cooler is the best way to truely cool the oil.

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by jhoppa
Crush washer yes, but steel bolt does not expand and contract like aluminum. That is why manufactures recommend anti-seize for all dis-similiar metals.

Never in any of my Honda and Acura training was I ever tought to put anti-seize on a drain bolt. Nor have I ever seen a drain bolt "seize" in a pan. Aluminum or metal. It just not going to happen. The oil is going to prevent any reaction by dis-similiar metals, or at least that has been my experience in the past 15 years working on Hondas.
The crush washer is just there to help prevent over-torqueing of the bolt, and to create an optimum sealing surface.

[UglyMotha™]

Originally posted by Woodsrider
Never in any of my Honda and Acura training was I ever tought to put anti-seize on a drain bolt. Nor have I ever seen a drain bolt "seize" in a pan. Aluminum or metal. It just not going to happen. The oil is going to prevent any reaction by dis-similiar metals, or at least that has been my experience in the past 15 years working on Hondas.
The crush washer is just there to help prevent over-torqueing of the bolt, and to create an optimum sealing surface.


well said................... in other words if you don't want it to break then don't gorrilla tighten it plain and simple

also a larger oil tank will not lower your engine temps even if it is what the manufacturer claims, yes it does cool you oil better but once in returns into the engine its right back at the same temp as it was before........................... these are air cooled engines nowhere does it say that there oil cooled at the most you'll benefit from a oversized oil cooler is a deeper pocket and a little bit better oil life

i'm running a 452 stroker and my timing is even advanced i'm using the stock oil tank and the stock oil cooler and she feels no hotter than a stock 400

[jhoppa]

Never in any of my Honda and Acura training was I ever tought to put anti-seize on a drain bolt. Nor have I ever seen a drain bolt "seize" in a pan. Aluminum or metal. It just not going to happen. The oil is going to prevent any reaction by dis-similiar metals, or at least that has been my experience in the past 15 years working on Hondas.

All I can say, is you never have worked on a 400ex oil tank. Thick drain plug attached to super thin tank. The entire drain plug plus the aluminum around the plug rips out without much torque.

The threads on a 400ex drain plug are not inside the oil tank and they are not being lubricated by oil. If anything the oil that is caught inside the treads is burned up and adds to the difficultly of drain plug removal.

This is the reason for anti-seize. Don't believe me... don't use anti-seize. :blah:

[cals400ex]

i had my stock tank reinforced too. mine slowly started dripping oil out of the bottom so i figured if i did one more oil change, it would snap. i just took it to a shop that worked with aluminum. i wouldn't spend the money on an aftermarket one of it was me. i think honda knew it was somewhat of a problem because i believe in 02, maybe it was 03, they reinforeced the tank themselves.

[Woodsrider]

Originally posted by jhoppa
This is the reason for anti-seize. Don't believe me... don't use anti-seize. :blah:
Ive had my 400 now for three years. Put 3400 miles on it, plus what ever was on it before I bought it (its a 99). I change the oil every 200-400 miles. My oil tank is fine;)
If you dont OVER TORQUE it, you wont break it. It as simple as that:blah:

[Ex'r Marlin]

Originally posted by NacsMXer
A larger tank will obviously have more oil capacity than stock, but all it's going to do is create a larger medium for heat to disperse into. Bigger tank or not, all the oil will eventually reach the same temperature once operating temp is reached. So basically all a bigger tank will do is make the oil take longer to heat up to operating temp.

To actually lower operating temps, what you need is either a larger oil cooler like in my sig, or an auxilary cooler like the system offered from Mickey Dunlap at Four Stroke Tech. I'm still running the stock tank with my race motor because I really don't see the need for a larger tank; the larger oil cooler drops the temps drastically.

Ditto!

After 6 years of careful maintenance, I too just recently broke that darn stock oil tank!:mad:

I just purchased a UM aftermarket oil tank from C&D Racing... I will not invest $15 to $30 on a stock Honda oil tank!:grr:

Question: I like the thought of using anti-seize on the drain plug, but would there be an issue if the anti-seize mixed with the motor oil?

Note: I too went with the Desert Toys Oil Cooler.:macho

[MOFO]

I'm glad to see Woodsrider and Ugly clearing things up here. Alot of BS was floating around.

Woodsrider is right on the money...everytime you change your oil, change the "crush" gasket and do not over torque your bolt!!! If you do not do these two things, you WILL break your oil tank.

They make torque wrenches for these types of applications where the wrong amount of torque can destroy a part.

[WheelerBob]

Not to change the topic but where do you get a Desert toys cooler, I've been looking for a larger cooler for the 400 and all I can find is the fst.

[cals400ex]

Originally posted by WheelerBob
Not to change the topic but where do you get a Desert toys cooler, I've been looking for a larger cooler for the 400 and all I can find is the fst.


i would just get the mickey dunlap FST (four stroke tech) oil cooler. it will be cheaper....

[Ex'r Marlin]

Originally posted by WheelerBob
Not to change the topic but where do you get a Desert toys cooler, I've been looking for a larger cooler for the 400 and all I can find is the fst.

www.DesertToyzATVracing.com

623-334-3346... Ask for Cory to talk about the 400EX oil cooler.

Located in Peoria, Arizona

Best wishes!:)