blew the budget

[barkbuster350r]

hey, I am needing some advice. i just bought an 86 trx from a friend knowing that the motor was seized. got it cheap, i had hoped to rebuild the motor: main bearings, boar, rod, and piston. i just got off the phone with duncan racing, they said that the average rebuild cost from $1500 - $2000 with no performance upgrades. i was thinking more of $500- $700. was i just crazy or does a overhaul cost that much.
also the numbers on the piston are 2.0mm 526p8
can someone tell me what boar i'm on
thanks

[Tom TRX250R]

I would tell Duncan racing to take that quote and shove it up their ***:devil:

But seriously that is too much money for what your getting. Go buy a Honda shop manual or Clymers and read up on how to do it yourself. You'll save a ton of money on labor and it will be rewarding in the end doing it yourself. Then you'll have to buy a flywheel puller-$12. Split the cases and inspect all the gears to make sure their in good shape.

Then a local shop should be able to rebuild your crank for around $130, I would go with the long rod but it is personal opinion. Also have your counter balancer rebuilt, It usually runs around $60. Then to bore your cylinder will cost another $40 and the piston kit will run about $100. If you are wanting to port the cylinder then now is a good time to have that done and there are a lot of options for that. A good port/polish usually runs around $200.

A gasket kit off of ebay, which I have had really good luck with, will run you $22. Inspect all bearings and seals in motor and replace anything even questionable. So in the end your looking at about $400-500 to rebuild your motor.

[barkbuster350r]

thanks for the reply, i was thinking about doing the motor myself. so the only specialty tool that i would need is a flywheel puller. how hard is it to split the center cases
thanks

[BLACKeR]

splitting the cases isnt that hard sometimes it takes a couple taps with a rubber mallet to get them to pop apart. the biggest thing to think of is keeping stuff organized. zip tie gear clusters together, stick masking tape on stuff and label it, store parts in zip lock bags, etc. rebuilding things wont be hard as long as you keep stuff organized and clean. theirs nothign worse that having a bench of scatered gears and odd washers and then having to try and figure out what washer goes where and which gear is 3rd and which one is 5th...

[barkbuster350r]

i have an 88 cylinder that has national porting by paul turner. but the port bridges are cracked. could this be repaired or is junk

[wilkin250r]

You have to understand Duncan's position.

You're looking at close to $500 in labor between dissassembly and reassembly, that's BEFORE anything gets fixed.

Very rarely is everything in perfect working order. Even if the cases look good on the outside, there may be cracks or wear around the bearings, and the cases may need to be replaced at $400. Even if the gears "seem" okay while you're shifting, the gears themselves may be worn out and need to be replaced. Same with the crank.

Duncan Racing is going to replace anything that is even remotely questionable, because they're not going to take chances with anything when they add 50% more horsepower.

THAT is why the average rebuild costs $1500. To get the motor in perfect shape, ready to accept more power.

[barkbuster350r]

i know ducan does really good work thats why i called them. and they dont want to just fix motors halfway. but i dont feel this motor has much use on it. by the way does anyone know what boar i'm on.
piston numbers are 2.0mm 526p8

[barkbuster350r]

i have an 88 cylinder that has national porting by paul turner. but the port bridges are cracked. could this be repaired or is junk

[LT250Racer609]

i bought the manual and a fly wheel puller and learned how to do everything myself when i blew 2nd gear.....its pretty simple if going by the manual....



also if you need a new cylinder i have some....PM me whenever if you need one we can make a deal

[barkbuster350r]

I have a Honda shop manual for an 86 ATC 250r. I would assume that the motors are the same for the TRX 250r, right?

i have an 88 cylinder that has national porting by paul turner. but the port bridges are cracked. could this be repaired or is it junk?

by the way does anyone know what boar i'm on.
piston numbers are 2.0mm 526p8

Thanks

[LT250Racer609]

as long as the 250R motor you have is a 86 then yes the 86 atc manual will work....if its a 87-89 250r engine it will not work

[robyone]

your a full 2mm over stock, 68mm. you don't have much room left.

[CHAR250R]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
You have to understand Duncan's position.

You're looking at close to $500 in labor between dissassembly and reassembly, that's BEFORE anything gets fixed.

Very rarely is everything in perfect working order. Even if the cases look good on the outside, there may be cracks or wear around the bearings, and the cases may need to be replaced at $400. Even if the gears "seem" okay while you're shifting, the gears themselves may be worn out and need to be replaced. Same with the crank.

Duncan Racing is going to replace anything that is even remotely questionable, because they're not going to take chances with anything when they add 50% more horsepower.

THAT is why the average rebuild costs $1500. To get the motor in perfect shape, ready to accept more power.



I agree 100%. You get what you pay for. Duncan is one of the best. They have been doing all my motor work for the past 15+ years. No problems. The tech support is unmatched.

[ESR350r]

That quote from duncan was outragous. I sent mine to ESR and had them resleeve it, go through the bottom end and replace everything, put a new 5 mm stroker crank in it, and got it back ready to bolt in and run fro 2000 and that was with shipping it out there and getting it back. i sent mine out because it need to be resleeved and i needed a new crank and i wanted it perfect. I usually rebuild my motors on my own and i would suggest that unless you have a race motor and it is something major.

[barkbuster350r]

I appreciate all you guys advice. I already have an 88 trx with a 350 powervalve engine, and had planned to build this 86 into a woods and trail bike that I can bash up. So I'm not planning on a lot of hop ups. I just want a low broad powerband and a motor that is reliable and easy to ride. I've already started looking for parts and plan to rebuild the motor myself.

By the way.... if anyone is interested in a super nice clean Banshee, I have one for sale in NW Arkansas. I can email you pictures if you would like to see it and answer any questions. Has Toomey T-5's, Trinity stage 4 intake manifold and single carb set up, mild porting, fresh rebuild, Baja wheels and holeshot tires. I'm asking $3200.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by ESR350r
That quote from duncan was outragous. I sent mine to ESR and had them resleeve it, go through the bottom end and replace everything, put a new 5 mm stroker crank in it, and got it back ready to bolt in and run fro 2000 and that was with shipping it out there and getting it back. i sent mine out because it need to be resleeved and i needed a new crank and i wanted it perfect. I usually rebuild my motors on my own and i would suggest that unless you have a race motor and it is something major.

The quote from Duncan was a preliminary, they said AVERAGE cost.

By comparison, look at your own motor that you spent $2000 on. The resleeve really isn't an "upgrade", the only upgrade you have is the stroker crank, which is only a couple hundred more than a standard crank replacement.

If you had just done a standard crank, your costs would have been $1600, with no performance upgrade. Oddly, that's right about the range that Duncan quoted...

[barkbuster350r]

hey, I split my cases today it was super easy (it didn't fall all apart like I feared) a couple of pops with a rubber malet and it slid apart. Thanks saved me big money!! Now for the rebuild, the main bearings are shot needs boar and rod. Trans looks brand new can't see any wear at all. Had question what are the advantages of using a long rod. I'm building this quad for woods and trail riding. So more low end power and torque is what I want. I have a paul turner race pipe, but it does not look like the one on their website did they change it at some point. My pipe has a crook in it. What is the difference

thanks

[ESR350r]

The guy in the original post just wanted to rebuild the motor: main bearings, boar, rod, and piston. Mine was 2000 which included the 300 for resleeveing and a brand new 500.00 stroker crank to replace the stroker crank that i had in it along with a couple update kits and other misc. things i needed. That 2000.00 also included the shipping for me to send it out there and get it back. ESR's price quotes are 225 to R and R the bottom end, 125 the R and R the crank, 120 to R and R the top end, and 50 to bore it. Add all those up and it comes to 517.00 which is a third to a quarter of what duncan said. that does not include shipping but say another 200.00 to get it there and back and then it is at 717.00 which is right around what he wanted to spend. That does not include upgrades or anything.

[barkbuster350r]

Originally posted by barkbuster350r
hey, I split my cases today it was super easy (it didn't fall all apart like I feared) a couple of pops with a rubber malet and it slid apart. Thanks saved me big money!! Now for the rebuild, the main bearings are shot needs boar and rod. Trans looks brand new can't see any wear at all. Had question what are the advantages of using a long rod. I'm building this quad for woods and trail riding. So more low end power and torque is what I want. I have a paul turner race pipe, but it does not look like the one on their website did they change it at some point. My pipe has a crook in it. What is the difference

thanks

[beerock]

people have there own preferences, but the only time i would rebuild a crank instead of buying a OEM HONDA crank is when they stop manufacturing them.

if you want piece of mind buy a new OEM honda crank, also they dotn make 86 short rods anymore. the best year crank was 88, go get one of them and two 89 style main bearings and seals. Forgive me if im wrong but i beleive the 89 main bearing has 1 extra ball bearing in it. I know one of the years has a extra ball bearing in it, I know this because I run it in all my motors, i just forgot what year.

if everything is in good shape all you really need is a good bottom end for peace of mine.

68mm is fine, if you can bore the cylinder out to 68.25mm and it cleans up well, then you still have 1 or 2 more bores left before resleeving time. if the cyl wall is pretty gouges then you mgiht have to go to 68.50 which is 265CC, but dont bore out to it if you dont have to, you wont notice a substantial power gain.

[Tom TRX250R]

I originally had the short rod 86 motor , but after sending my crank off to ESR I had them rebuild with the long rod. I personally like the long rod better. It has more low end torque than the 86. For your setup I would go with the long rod but remember if you are running an 86 piston you'll need a spacer plate.


And Beerock I almost postive that it is the 89 with the extra bearing because thats what I bought for mine off of servicehonda.

[BLACKeR]

I'm building this quad for woods and trail riding. So more low end power and torque is what I want. I have a paul turner race pipe, but it does not look like the one on their website did they change it at some point. My pipe has a crook in it. What is the difference

the paul turner type6 pipe has a "crook" in it and i also believe that the high rev has a crook. paul turner makes a lot of pipes i have a paul turner trx89 race pipe now and its a all around pipe. it has no crook. the type 6 is the woods pipe and if thats what you have its a very good low end pipe. it should say what kind of pipe you have on a little plate welded on the side on the pipe.

[barkbuster350r]

thanks for your response I have a type 6 paul turner on another r that I have. But this pipe says "paul turner race" on it. On their website it said that the race pipe had been revised. I just bought this 86 r and it was on it, I assume that it is real old. It has a crook in like the type 6, but not identical.