PDA

View Full Version : Removing counter balance??



fasterblaster09
09-04-2005, 10:00 PM
Looking to remove counterbalane out of my blaster,this may sound stupid,but how do I do this?
thanks neil

mikeboone
09-04-2005, 10:12 PM
You may think it would be good for some more hp but DONT do it. You will be vibrated to death.

You can do mods to bump the power but leave the c/blnc alone.

fasterblaster09
09-04-2005, 10:18 PM
But,I've done taing every possible thing to take for weight reduction,theres nothign else.And this bike oesnt see ANYTHING the sand or dirt drags.No trail riding whatsoever.I'm trying to get it to 200lbs,at most.

mikeboone
09-05-2005, 08:07 AM
Originally posted by fasterblaster09
But,I've done taing every possible thing to take for weight reduction,theres nothign else.And this bike oesnt see ANYTHING the sand or dirt drags.No trail riding whatsoever.I'm trying to get it to 200lbs,at most.

Replace the steel parts with aluminum: handlebars, shifter, axle, hubs, tie rods,etc I remomved the rear brakes on my 460 and if you only run dirt you dont need them either(provided your fronts work properly)

I dont know if you can get it to 200 lbs wet but motor work will make up the difference.

I run marvin Shaw drag shocks and all 3 weigh about what one from atv spring does. Check out www.tysonracing.com. They arent cheap but WILL drop some weight off.

SHADETREE101
09-05-2005, 08:58 AM
removing the counter balance will only throw your engine out of sync. this will cause early problems to the crank. it is there to make it rev smoother, and it does need it, otherwise i would have done it by now.

bradley300
09-05-2005, 02:26 PM
i think you need to post a pic of your blaster

i have seen it, and guys, he's probably close to 200 lbs. i have seen blasters w/o counter balancers, and when your that serious about dragging, your probably doing a bunch of bottom and top end rebuilds anyway. i say go for it

fasterblaster09
09-05-2005, 03:03 PM
Here's some older pictures.I have motor work,alot.I have my rear brakes,but took out the front.Took out alll wiring not needed,such as key etc.Cut and shaved off ANTHING on frame not needed.Seat was shaved down.These pics are kinda old.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=7684101&uid=3210006&members=1

Main reason im doing it,is because I hear alot of them breaking on drag motors,and when it rbeaks,it breaks ALOT.So im preventing it from happening.About the shocks,I will be using square tubing.

mikeboone
09-05-2005, 04:21 PM
. Would also switch rear rims for 10" and eliminate all that excess rubber.

You run stock swingarm and are they steel?

The counterbalancers are breaking on the blaster motors? I have never heard of that?

Instead of removing the c/b maybe look into getting it lightended?

fasterblaster09
09-05-2005, 07:06 PM
The stock swingar was extended 4.But vibration isnt a problem for me,becuase im on it for 30 seconds at a time.I was also looking into lightng the flywheel.

mikeboone
09-05-2005, 07:19 PM
Do you run the 240 kit? Alky conversion on your carb would help a good bit HP wise.

JL Luckey has some new stuiff alum. as well. Even have aluminum footpegs would save some weight.

fasterblaster09
09-05-2005, 07:27 PM
Honestly,I dont know what the hell is in the motor,I just bought it 2 months ago.All I know is when I bouht it,they had a nw crank installed,and .60 over.I know im stupid for getting it,but i've seen it run at the track.Before I bought it I went to the guy who built it and said if i dont buy it he will,so I did.

I have the kehin 35mm carb runnig on ultoimate 2,im looknig to have it ovnerted,but I dotn know exactly what alll I need.

mikeboone
09-05-2005, 07:35 PM
Originally posted by fasterblaster09
Honestly,I dont know what the hell is in the motor,I just bought it 2 months ago.All I know is when I bouht it,they had a nw crank installed,and .60 over.I know im stupid for getting it,but i've seen it run at the track.Before I bought it I went to the guy who built it and said if i dont buy it he will,so I did.

I have the kehin 35mm carb runnig on ultoimate 2,im looknig to have it ovnerted,but I dotn know exactly what alll I need.

FTZ, Packard,etc all do alky conversions and you just fine tune the jetting.

What times oes it turn in 300ft? We have a new 250ft dirt track here but has home made timing system w/ no porta tree yet. I run asphalt mainly 1/8 mile with mine. How do the Pro wedges work out w/ Blaster? I run maxxis 4 snow with very sim. pattern.

fasterblaster09
09-05-2005, 08:07 PM
Best I got got so far was 5.3,and I wasnt used t it,first day of riding it.But the same day I letthe one i bought it from ride and he got a 5.1 on it.This was with wrong reeds,stock,and bad plug.The pro wedges ll hook up great in dirt and sand.Stands up with me everytime.

prepracing
09-06-2005, 01:37 AM
Originally posted by fasterblaster09
But,I've done taing every possible thing to take for weight reduction,theres nothign else.And this bike oesnt see ANYTHING the sand or dirt drags.No trail riding whatsoever.I'm trying to get it to 200lbs,at most.

just curious on how much the counterbalancer weighs, would it be a significant weight reduction to bother with taking it off :confused:

bradley300
09-06-2005, 06:21 AM
yes it would. its only a few ounces, but your not taking it off really to get dry wieght down, that few ounces is alot becasue it puts drag on the motor. the lighter all the moving parts in the motor, the easier (faster) it can rev

wilkin250r
09-06-2005, 03:25 PM
I have to really question the sanity of this decision to remove the counterbalance. :huh

I've known people that have tried it (with a 250r, not a blaster). However, these people were experts, with lots of experience with the motors they were running. They have tried it all, big-bores, strokers, radical porting, nitrous. You name it, they tried it, and did all their own work.

For almost anything I can think of, most people learn about engines and performance by working on engines. You have to be able to practice your theory. How else can you determine if your theory is sound?

Basically, my point is: If you don't know how to remove your own counterbalance, how can you just suddenly decide to try it? If you've never worked on your engine down to that detail, how can you know what other effects it might have, or other aspects to consider?

If you're a novice at engine building, why in the world are you attempting something that you have no idea about?

fasterblaster09
09-06-2005, 04:52 PM
Well the guy who builds my bikes,said he does it to his bikes.But he is straight dragger,thats it.He said that I should look into it,im just seeing how hard it is to be done.

400ex100
09-26-2005, 02:07 PM
u would have to split the case's its not that hard if u know what you are doing.

09-26-2005, 08:44 PM
if you havent done this already,, cut some of that damn hair off your head. lol that will really cut doun on the weight.

fasterblaster09
09-26-2005, 09:20 PM
Originally posted by mittimj
if you havent done this already,, cut some of that damn hair off your head. lol that will really cut doun on the weight.

I rather have my hair then my counter balance lol.But I just decided to sell it,so its no use going through all that crap.What yall think I could get or her??or about how much??

nakomis0
09-27-2005, 07:21 PM
Cut the frame.

Remove supports you don't need.

Where you do need them see if you can weld in lighter parts.

A good example is the foot pegs, remove them and weld on a lighter tube of metal.