pick up question

[RobbRacer]

does anyone know if a 32 11.5 15 tire will fit on a 4x4 1500 chevy i have 31's on there now and its fine i think that they would fit.

[Killa250ex]

Well, I put 33's on my old Ranger...

but now they're on my F250, i'll get a pic of that here in a minute...

my old truckhttp://img213.echo.cx/img213/2592/mytruck4ic.jpg

[Killa250ex]

My F250 with those same tires on it...

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by RobbRacer
does anyone know if a 32 11.5 15 tire will fit on a 4x4 1500 chevy i have 31's on there now and its fine i think that they would fit.

i drive a 98 silverado z71....32x11.50's will rub...you will need a 3 inch body lift for clearance...but if you do a 3 inch body lift might as well go ahead and slap a 33x11.50 on...i think the largest tire you can fit on a stock sized silverado will proally be a 31

[RobbRacer]

cool thanks, has anybody over done a body lift is it hard, also there is a lift that i am looking at on ebay. has anyone ever delt with one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7980030837&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

[TCracin440ex]

a body lift is not hard...the hardest part is proally the cab...have a bunch of buddies handy and the bed will be a breaze...lift the bed up...sit the blocks under there and bolt it down...you are going to have to get a longer rubber hose for your filler neck...and your body the same way

[TCracin440ex]

that kit is junk...that relocates your torsion bars...i dont think you would wnat to do that because that puts your cv joints at a big angle...and that will chew them up....3 inch body would proally be the best option u can get body lifts all day long for about 200 dollars off summit racing...it comes with everything even the front bumper relocation brackets

[RobbRacer]

thats good to know, thanks for the advice.
i also know that you have to add a extensioner to your steering knuckle is that hard and were would be the best place to get a body lift? ebay, jegs, summit or is there some place else? the kits on ebay come with everything i think and they are $180 i think.

[TCracin440ex]

your welcome....anything to help out a member....


if you have the money go ahead and get the 6 inch suspension lift and you can clear 35s eazy lol

[RobbRacer]

haha yeah i wish i could.

[TCracin440ex]

yea me 2...right now my z71 is stock...gas is too expensive for me to even remotely think about liftin...and i dont have a job either so...money for gas is hard to come by....

[Rastus]

I have a 93' Chev. Silvy Ext. Cab with an 8 foot bed.

Right now I have 16X10 American Eagle wheels, with 285/75/16 BFG All-terrains( Pretty much 33X11.5 ) with a 3-inch body. Before I installed the new rims I was just running the 285s without a body lift on the stock wheels, and had no clearance problems. On the stock wheels you should have very few if any problems fitting 33s, and worst case is you'll have to crank your T-Bars a couple turns.


Aftermarket wheels will have a big impact on what you can run, as an offset wheel has a larger turn radius. If you have aftermarket wheels, keep this in mind.


If you go ahead with a body lift, get a complete kit for your vehicle. It should include all instructions and front relocation brackets for the bumper. Some good BL kits I have heard of are Performance Accessories and Trailmaster, and I actually used a trailmaster kit on my truck. Try local truck accessory shops, or call around to the place and ask if they have body lifts. For reference, I think my lift was around 130-140$ local.

Usually the rear bumper relocation brackets are sold seperately, but should be easy to pick up. If you follow the instructions, you should have virtually no problems because a body lift is not hard and doesn't require special tools. I actually did mine in my backyard by myself with some hand tools and a jack with some pieces of wood. Jack+wood blocks comes in reeeaal handy when it comes time to lift the body. ;)


Sorry for the real long post, just trying to get it all in. Post back with the year, etc. of your chevy. If you need more info you could try some of the Chevy sites, like Chevytruckworld (http://www.chevytruckworld.com) and FullsizeChevy (http://www.fullsizechevy.com) .



(Oh yea, don't get that kit on eBay. All that really is is a block kit with some new keys. It will get you 2 inches, but is actually harder than a body lift. It deals with taking the tension off your T-bars and putting those new keys in, and putting new blocks on your axle. Sounds simple but is a good amount of work, and it's hard on your front end because of the angle it puts your joints at. Not to mention, it also wouldn't ride near as well.)

[Rastus]

Here's my truck.., not really washed... Just in the driveway. Before too long I'll have some new meats.:)

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by Rastus
(Oh yea, don't get that kit on eBay. All that really is is a block kit with some new keys. It will get you 2 inches, but is actually harder than a body lift. It deals with taking the tension of your T-bars and putting those new keys in, and putting new blocks on your axle. Sounds simple but is a good amount of work, and it's hard on your front end because of the angle it puts your joints at. Not to mention, it also wouldn't ride near as well.)

exact same thing i said about the joints...the body lift will be eazier to do...cranking your torsion bars wont hurt anything as long as you dont crank them too much ive heard of people cranking the torsion bars to get the trucks to set level....but it also stiffens the ride

[Scott-300ex]

6 inch could fit like 38's lol

spring lifts are better, give you more ground clearence and are better, body's you see the gap and the gas tank and stuff

you'll also could have to extend the differential breather tubes, but that would be all

and a body lift won't mess with your u or cv joints

body lifts are easier and take less time

but if you get a suspension, and been threw a lot of mud and its an older truck, get out the sawzall cuz YOU'LL BE CUTTIN THREW THE LEAF SPRING BOLTS!!!!!!! and it sucks so bad

im dang sure you can fit 32x11.50s on your truck now

when you turn or hit a big bump they might rub a bit but it wouldn't be bad if it did

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by Scott-300ex
6 inch could fit like 38's lol

spring lifts are better, give you more ground clearence and are better, body's you see the gap and the gas tank and stuff

you'll also could have to extend the differential breather tubes, but that would be all

and a body lift won't mess with your u or cv joints

body lifts are easier and take less time

but if you get a suspension, and been threw a lot of mud and its an older truck, get out the sawzall cuz YOU'LL BE CUTTIN THREW THE LEAF SPRING BOLTS!!!!!!! and it sucks so bad

im dang sure you can fit 32x11.50s on your truck now

when you turn or hit a big bump they might rub a bit but it wouldn't be bad if it did


6 inch with a 3 inch body will fit 38s but i wouldnt recomend anything over 38s with a stock rearend and stock fronted....when you get in to tires like that your gonna want to regear and recalibrate your speed-o for tire size....4.56 will be the gear ratio most likely be the gear ratio for 38s....35's will be fine with stock gears but will have a little less bottomend....6 inch suspension lift is made to run 35s

[Rastus]

Originally posted by Scott-300ex
6 inch could fit like 38's lol

spring lifts are better, give you more ground clearence and are better, body's you see the gap and the gas tank and stuff

you'll also could have to extend the differential breather tubes, but that would be all

and a body lift won't mess with your u or cv joints

body lifts are easier and take less time

but if you get a suspension, and been threw a lot of mud and its an older truck, get out the sawzall cuz YOU'LL BE CUTTIN THREW THE LEAF SPRING BOLTS!!!!!!! and it sucks so bad

im dang sure you can fit 32x11.50s on your truck now

when you turn or hit a big bump they might rub a bit but it wouldn't be bad if it did


The problem with the lift you're talking about is that our style chevies have IFS. With IFS you have no real front axle, just a main unit and two cv type shafts. IFS is extremely expensive when it comes to lifts, and IFS is not known for its strength with large tires. The whole front-end suspension requires a new subframe and pretty much new everything.

Just for reference, with my body lift you can't see the gas tank or anything. You can see more frame and the gap, but I plan to fix the gap before too long.

If you were going to a 35 and planned on towing or anything like that, it would be a very good idea to re-gear. You could actually hurt your MPG and your tranny without re-gearing. Generally, I've heard that for towing or spirited driving with 33s you want 4.10s and with 35s you want 4.56s. If you don't tow with the truck, then this really doesn't apply. It's a good idea to re-gear though.

There's also a problem with re-gearing. You can re-gear the 10 bolts with 4.56 gears, but these gears are not nearly as strong as the stock 3.73 gears(or so, could be lower). The pinion on a set of 4.56 gears has less teeth, which means the extra pressure from the tires, etc. is actually on a smaller area. About the only way out of this one is to swap in a heavier axle or go to a numerically lower gear ratio.

Again just for reference, my speed-o is about 5 MPH off at 55MPH. If it says 55, I'm actually doing about 60.


Not trying to seem like a know it all.., just my input. :)

[TCracin440ex]

I agree with everything stated above....IFS is designed for is handling characteristics....it really wont designed to be compatable with a lift...thats why i wouldnt do anything over 6inches of lift on a IFS truck without doing a straight front axle conversion...

i want to lift up my 98 z71 but the cost for ifs lifts is just too much...there is alot of stuff you have to do under the frontend of that truck to make it strong...the rearend is eazy its just like any other rearend....i wish my truck was SFA because i could lift up a SFA truck pretty cheap just by buying 4 new leaf springs and shocks and a few other odds and ins...

[Scott-300ex]

yeah, i know IFS lifts suck


i helped a guy with one

6 steps to lift the back

56 or so steps to lift the front




Fords the only one with solid axles still:devil:

:muscle:

[Rastus]

I have to give Ford props for their F250s and F350s. They have a pretty successful line-up there.:macho

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by Scott-300ex
yeah, i know IFS lifts suck


i helped a guy with one

6 steps to lift the back

56 or so steps to lift the front




Fords the only one with solid axles still:devil:

:muscle:

until a couple of years ago dodge came factory with a straight front axle deal....

i like my ifs because of its handling characteristics....i want to get me a sfa 3/4 ton chevy pickup and lift it up and make a mud/play toy out of it to keep my ifs from gettin messed up on the frontend of my z

[EPDP99]

the "keys" for that lift on ebay arent as bad as just messing with the torsion bars. they are actually decent and they wont put too much more tension or pressure on your cv joints. per chevy they go bad about every three years regardless. a lift company made a prototype for my brothers 1/2 ton dodge. same type of lift. body lifts dont do anything but raise your center of balance. go with the key lifts, or do a complete suspension. but raising the body to me is usless. with the torsion bar keys you gain ground clearance also.

[TCracin440ex]

yea but hes gonna have a stiff a$s ride...

[TCracin440ex]

im still on my stock cv joints...and my truck is a 98...

[EPDP99]

yes the ride will get stiffer, but it wont be jaw breaking. personally i wouldnt want my truck to ride like a cadillac, therefore ill keep my ford......www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=139910&perpage=15&pagenumber=4]

[TCracin440ex]

ok...imo if you buy any 4x4 truck and expect it to ride like a cadillac your f-ed up...i was raised arround trucks and 4x4s...and i kno that all 4x4s have that signature 4x4 ride to them....hell even a cadillac escalade has that ride to it...face it...its a truck....not a lincoln town car or cadillac deville

[Rastus]

Originally posted by EPDP99
the "keys" for that lift on ebay arent as bad as just messing with the torsion bars. they are actually decent and they wont put too much more tension or pressure on your cv joints. per chevy they go bad about every three years regardless. a lift company made a prototype for my brothers 1/2 ton dodge. same type of lift. body lifts dont do anything but raise your center of balance. go with the key lifts, or do a complete suspension. but raising the body to me is usless. with the torsion bar keys you gain ground clearance also.


Actually, all the keys do is allow the T-bars to be cranked more than the stock ones allow. The stock keys will crank up plenty well, and you can only crank so far before the top arm hits a notch on the frame. You can gain a small amount of ground clearance with new keys, but the much harsher ride isn't worth it. You'll be dragging the rear diff. anyways, so there's not much point.

My 93 joints are fine..:bandit:


Actually, a body lift raises the center of balance less than a suspension. A body lift, lifts only the body but a suspension raises the whole frame/motor/gas tank/ everything, except the axles pretty much. That puts most of the heavier parts of the truck higher, which makes it more off-center than a BL.


A body lift is around because it's a fairly cheap way to gain some clearance for alittle bit bigger tires. It won't gain you ground clearance with a BL alone, but neither will a suspension.:)

[EPDP99]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rastus
[B]Actually, all the keys do is allow the T-bars to be cranked more than the stock ones allow. The stock keys will crank up plenty well, and you can only crank so far before the top arm hits a notch on the frame. You can gain a small amount of ground clearance with new keys, but the much harsher ride isn't worth it. You'll be dragging the rear diff. anyways, so there's not much point.[QUOTE]

Actually the keys are made so you dont have to move the stock position not to raise it even higher than you can crank them.

[ZBlaster]

my uncle has 32x11.50's on his 95 work truck... he just cranked the tbars and has no problems...

and on the IFS arguments... IFS is weak... esspecially chevies 1/2 ton IFS... most people would barely trust it with 33's and ive seen my cousin ruin a perfect condition 94's front end wheeling it pretty hard with 33's...

now back to the tire question... if you crank your tbars ur going to have a little rougher ride... id personally recomend just getting a body lift... most of ur stock components will not need to be lengthened, and if they do ur kit will come with most of the things needed to lengthen them... when i did mine i just had to reroute my clutch cable and brake cable, lengthen the gas tank tube (no problem at all really), lengthen the steering shaft (take 2 pins out, slide it out 2 1/2" and then redrill and put the pins back in), and i had to have my shifter straightened and reinforced... it took me roughly 7 hours to do my body lift by myself in my driveway... if u get a 2" body lift you can run the 32x11.50s with no problems, if u get a 3" kit i recomend stepping it on up to a 33x12.50 tire...

[Rastus]

Originally posted by EPDP99
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rastus
[B]Actually, all the keys do is allow the T-bars to be cranked more than the stock ones allow. The stock keys will crank up plenty well, and you can only crank so far before the top arm hits a notch on the frame. You can gain a small amount of ground clearance with new keys, but the much harsher ride isn't worth it. You'll be dragging the rear diff. anyways, so there's not much point.[QUOTE]

Actually the keys are made so you dont have to move the stock position not to raise it even higher than you can crank them.


But you're missing what I'm saying here. Maybe you're thinking of a ford key setup, but on our chevy setups you can only raise the arms physically so much. The new keys will require less turns in than the stockers to get the same height, if that's what you're saying.


About the IFS, it really depends on what kind of driver the person is I think. I've had the 33s on my 93 for awhile, and she's been through some stuff and hasn't broken yet(knock on wood)

Just for note, the trailmaster kit I bought had an adapter to go into the steering shaft and everything. Didn't have to drill, I was surprised.:chinese:


I haven't heard anything else from the original poster, maybe he'll get back to us.