new 450R engine questions

[LocoR]

I JUST BOUGHT MY 450R IN MAY. AND NOW IVE BEEN READING LOTS ABOUT CRANK AND BEARING PROBLEMS. IVE GOT ABOUT 30 HOURS ON MACHINE AND STILL RUNS GREAT. BUT IM CONCERNED ABOUT NOISE AND ENGINE VIBRATIONS. I HEAR TAPPING OR CHATTERING AT IDLE AND UP AND IT SEEMS TO VIBRATE TOO MUCH WHEN REV'D UP. I'VE READ THAT THEY MAY BE OUT OF BALLANCE. IT IS DATED FEB.05 SO IT IS LIKELY GOT THE BEARING PROBLEM. IS THE TAPPING AND VIBRATION NORMAL OR SHOULD I GET THE ENGINE CHECKED BEFORE IT LOCKS UP. ITS BETTER TO CATCH IT BEFORE THAN AFTER IT GOES. AND IF THEY WON'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT THEN I'LL PUT ON LOTS OF HOURS BEFORE MY WARRANTY IS UP. BUT ANYWAYS I LOVE THE MACHINE. ITS GREAT AND I CAN'T WAIT TO RIDE IT AGAIN. THANKS FOR THE HELP.

http://maddox.xmission.net/keyboard4.jpg

Originally posted by MixMasterMike
http://maddox.xmission.net/keyboard4.jpg

although, you've been a butt to me...................that was actually funny.

[LocoR]

thanks for the help buddy. not much of a computer geek here. but if it bugs ya that much then here you go. any other helpfull info for me or is that all...

[JRDrider22]

Hey man, maybe go get it checked by the local dealer. maybe safe than sorry. maybe its a lose bolt or nut somewhere(have it happened many times). would you rather spend $60 bucks now for the check up, or 300+ after part of the motor goes. so its up to you

a loud pipe takes care of everything.

altho it is a fairly new machine so you may want to keep up with maintance.

To check your main crank bearing, take off the hex head plug on the right side of your motor. You will see a bolt under that cap that is offset from the hole. If you can move the bolt forwards or backwards or up and down then your bearing is out. Another good sign is if there is oil in your airbox because the seal between the motor and the transmission was taken out by the faulty bearing and too much oil has been thrown into your crankcase from your transmission.

Originally posted by ab****
To check your main crank bearing, take off the hex head plug on the right side of your motor. You will see a bolt under that cap that is offset from the hole. If you can move the bolt forwards or backwards or up and down then your bearing is out. Another good sign is if there is oil in your airbox because the seal between the motor and the transmission was taken out by the faulty bearing and too much oil has been thrown into your crankcase from your transmission. Good post man. I'm gonna go check this out and be keeping an eye on it.

[Out_Sider]

very good post indeed :)

[LocoR]

well ive changed the oil lots and have ridden it every chance i get with no problems. and its still running strong. oil is clean and no shavings. im just f*#$^%! paranoid about it i guess.
so what would be a good first mod for performance out of the engine? jetting,maybe? its all stock now.

Originally posted by LocoR
well ive changed the oil lots and have ridden it every chance i get with no problems. and its still running strong. oil is clean and no shavings. im just f*#$^%! paranoid about it i guess.
so what would be a good first mod for performance out of the engine? jetting,maybe? its all stock now. get a aftermarket exhaust (I reccommend a Dr. D slip-on), take airbox lid off and throw a aftermarket airfilter on there and rejet to a 175-180 main.

[mstrav1]

if i were you i would do the 5hp for $40 mod first. and as far as a slip-on is concerned, you are wasting money. the hrc tip will perform almost as good. 2-3 lbs makes no diff in weight if you don't race.

-drill your crank case breather to 5/16 - 3/8 = free
-cut yout stock air box on the lines to match the hrc = free
-cut the vacuum tip of the snorkle = free
-install a 172 main jet= $5 (bring the old one with you because the morons at the shops will give you the wrong one. its a large hex style).
-buy an hrc tip for your stock pipe from here or e-bay =$25
(your bike will smoke for a minute or two due to extra air flow though the filter, but it will be fine)
total cost $40 at the most.

***if you want to take the extra 1/2 hour:
-hrc needle =$25 (someone here has the part number i don't have it with me)

k&n with billet ring - $90
or
just k&n - $45 (use an outerwears either way)

you will have a whole dif bike wile you decide what FULL PIPE ($450 - $650) to buy and what cam ($135 hrc or hotcams do not buy the hrc kit!!!)

later, matt

[jgfarmsracer]

when you say drill the crankcase breather are you talkin' about the one on the right case half, front one towards the jug

[mstrav1]

yes its a(3) way tee below the heat shield on the head pipe. remove it and carefully drill it. this makes it the same as the hrc kit would provide. when you look in it you will see why. be carefull not to angle to much. just go slow its plastic and drills very easy. if you do what i listed in my above reponse your bike will be a ton more fun. not quite the cam / full pipe power, but better!!!!!!!!!!1

Originally posted by MixMasterMike
get a aftermarket exhaust (I reccommend a Dr. D slip-on), take airbox lid off and throw a aftermarket airfilter on there and rejet to a 175-180 main.

and a set of 22's. right, mixMaster?

[Scro]

Originally posted by force
and a set of 22's. right, mixMaster?

aright, if this turns into a flame fest, you are the mf'er that started it...

Originally posted by force
and a set of 22's. right, mixMaster? good job cunnt...i knew you'd see it my way ;)

easy fellas. don't get you panties in a bunch. i was just having a little fun with that last comment, because of the massive argument we had in another thread.

you two guys (bama & mixmaster) get extremely defensive about 22" tires. all someone has to do is mention it, and you're ready to fight.

i actually thought you guys would find that comment funny. guess not.