it just wont run right...

[kruzofman]

my 250r is running like crap....it starts up fine but when i go to rev it out it cuts out, and stumbles.....ive cleaned and checked the carb like 10 times, i bought a new cdi, it gets fuel....i cleaned the filter, i did a ****inuity test and everthing is fine........... i dont get it......can any one help me out......im stumped

[JTRtrx250r]

sounds like a jetting issue

Whats in it now?(mainjet)

Have you done any plugchops to know what its doing?

besides that, make sure the cap hose isnt plugged )or too long)

and make sure the petcock flows good

If its wet and black after your plug chop.... go leaner on the main, just go 1 at a time till it clears up

If its grey or white... go up on the main till she looks the color of a brown paper bag

Let us know what becomes of it;)

[Dave83]

Has it ran good in the past?Did you just check for continuity or did you get ohm readings on your electrical system.Start it up and get it to do what your talking about,kill it when it starts doing it and pull the plug.Let us know what it looks like.Could be jetting,weak electrical,bad flywheel key.Let us know.

[kruzofman]

well whats weird is it has been running great for months than all a suden it jus started to cut out....i did a continuity test on everything...it flows great out of the pitcock vavle, i bought a new cdi box, but its still cutting out on topend,

you know how a two stroke runs when u take off right away and dont let it worm up, it cuts out really bad, thats what it is doing but all the time, i mean my bike is totally warmed up and its jus cutting out....reeds are good, air filter is clean, jets are not clogged, all the elitrical is good except the only thing i can think of it being is the pulse generator

[JTRtrx250r]

it very well could be, but just to be sure you dont waiste your $$, try 1 jet size smaller and see if that cleans it up. The temps are getting warmer and that will definitly affect jetting. Mine varies about 5 jet sizes from summer to winter jetting


Good Luck man!;)

[wilkin250r]

The pulse generator? I doubt it. If it works at low RPM, it should work at high RPM.

Have you done a compression test?

Have you verified your jetting with plug chops, or a dyno tune?

From my experience, just because it "ran fine before", that doesn't always mean everything is good. Before I swapped my engine and carb, everything worked fine. The new engine and carb didn't work well, so I swapped the original set back in (the combo that ran just fine before), and it wouldn't idle, it was way too rich. I adjusted the screw, I went down a size on the pilot, and it still wouldn't idle. I went down another size, and another, and it STILL wouldn't idle. I shouldn't need to be changing 3 jet sizes, it worked just fine before.

I decided to see what everybody else was running, and it turned out I was WAY too rich. I had a 158 pilot in there. I dropped down 5 sizes, and it idles perfect. Now, I'm wondering how in the world it ever "ran fine before".

Go through the steps. Rather than chasing your old setup, just verify everything again. Check your compression, check your jetting, do a leak-down test.

Also, it may help us to diagnose the problem if you tell us what you are running, your carb size, pipe, and current jetting.

[edz250r]

Hey Wilkins....your idle problem was a main jet issue? I never heard of that. Can a main jet that is too large affect idling? I thought only the air screw or pilot could correct that?? I'm having the same problem with my R not idling right, but I never thought that it could be the main jet. I have a 195 in it now for jetting purposes and planned to drop it down once I do a plug chop, but I was trying to correct the idle first before I do some WOT runs.

[wilkin250r]

Oops, that was a typo. It was a 58 pilot, not a 158.

[J_bob_28]

Originally posted by kruzofman
well whats weird is it has been running great for months than all a suden it jus started to cut out....i did a continuity test on everything...it flows great out of the pitcock vavle, i bought a new cdi box, but its still cutting out on topend,

you know how a two stroke runs when u take off right away and dont let it worm up, it cuts out really bad, thats what it is doing but all the time, i mean my bike is totally warmed up and its jus cutting out....reeds are good, air filter is clean, jets are not clogged, all the elitrical is good except the only thing i can think of it being is the pulse generator

ours was doing the same exact thing like it was cutting out and what not and we checked everything...now i dont really kno what im talking about but we ended up replacing some coil thing or something like that and after that it ran fine

does anybody kno what coil thing im talkin about

[robyone]

I had the same problem, quad was running great and then all of a sudden it was running like sh%t. bought a new stator... wasn't the prob. got a new carb... wasn't the prob... ended up being a piece of silicone in the silencer that was restricting the exhaust flow. check it out, could be your problem.

[kruzofman]

really a piece of silicone, how big of a piece was it, must of been a pretty big junk to cut the exhaust flow, but ill go check right away and see if any thing is stoping the exhaust flow,

[TRX370R]

Stupid question probably but have you tried a new sparkplug? What do you have your plug gapped at? My R will start sputtering on the top end if the plug is gapped too wide. I've been setting it to .018", have also noticed that after a few rides that the gap will open up alittle bit. Also have had a sputtering problem due to a exhaust leak before at the cylinder flange. Wasn't much of a leak just noticed alittle black exhaust crap (for lack of a better term) running from the bottom of the exhaust flange at the cylinder head. After replacing the exhaust o-rings the sputter was gone. Just a few things that I have ran across. I'd follow what wilkin250r suggested that guy really knows his 250r's I've learned alot from reading his posts

[MR.BIG]

I would check your crank seals!

[robyone]

yep, it was fairly big, it was from where the silencer joins the pipe. I used silicone because I didn't have an exhaust clamp... took the silencer off to repack it and when I put it back on I pushed the silicone into the silencer. after a few rides it worked it self into the end of spark arrestor (fmf q silencer) and basicly clogged it. had me stumped, took it to a local shop and he couldn't figure it out, thought it was the pulse generator...got a new stator, thought it was the carb...got a new carb. after we stood there for a while scratching our heads, decided to take of the pipe to see how it would run and bingo! running perfect. took the silenser apart and there it was, a big clump of silicone. so 450.00 later and it was a piece silicone, oh well...it was a good excuse to get some new mods:D ricky stator lightened flywheel and stator, and mikuni 38mm tmx, been running like a champ ever since.

[kruzofman]

well the other day it jus died, i warmed it up and went to go take off and it started sputtering alot and woundnt clean itself out, and so i stoped, and tried to rev it in neutral, and it was cutting out bad, almost like if someone was turning the killswitch on and off really fast, i took out the plug and cleaned it, and i pushed the connections to the cdi box in really tight and it fired right up, but its still cutting out, so i took the carb off, and looked at the main and pilot jets, they were both clean, and i looked at the reeds and it was in good shape, i looked at the air filter and its clean, and i bought a bran new cdi box, soooo im thing i mite have to buy a new stater, any one else have any more ideas:confused: thanks

[Dave83]

Get an ohm meter and ohm the stator.Starting to sound more like it may be bad.

[beerock]

If you had a crank seal leak it wouldnt sputter, it would rev higher then normal.

For some strange reason I have a feeling your WOODRUF KEY BROKE.

it sounds like the timing is off, the key may have broke and the flywheel moved and your timing is off.

this is simple to check, take off the elft side cover and get a motion pro flywheel puller. pop the flywheel off and check the woodruf key.

in simpler terms the woodruf key is that piece of metal in the crank that holds the flywheel in place for timing.

I thought you checked the stator resistance already and you said it was good?

when you rev it does it reve really slow or really fast then fall on its ***?

[Dave83]

He said he checked continuity,not ohms.You need to ohm it,but the key is a good possibility.I thought he may have checked that already too.

[beerock]

well checkin the resistance is what your refering to when you say ohm it. This is the thing though, usually when stators go bad they run alright but sputter on top and break up.

i forget what the stator has to be between isnt it like .03 and .05? i forget. its been posted in other threads countless times. I only did it once to trouble shoot my friends ignition. and it turned out to be a wire holding on with one strand. we found it after we swapped stators cdis coils EH.

[Dave83]

Actually,Bee,continuity and ohms are 2 different things.Ohms is resistance and continuity is just that,means the wire has connection from one end to the other.You can have a 100 strand wire with 99 of them broke and still get continuity but the ohms will be way off.I know what your saying about when people check cont,they are ohming it,but not sure if he actually ohmed it or just checked cont.
Ign. coil primary green and black/yellow wire 0.1-0.3 ohms
secondary circuit green wire andplug cap 7.4-11K ohm(K setting is important)
Alternator exciter coil black/red wire andgreen wire 50-250 ohms
Pulse generator blue/yellow wire and green/white wire 50-250 ohms

[beerock]

Originally posted by Dave83
Actually,Bee,continuity and ohms are 2 different things.Ohms is resistance and continuity is just that,means the wire has connection from one end to the other.You can have a 100 strand wire with 99 of them broke and still get continuity but the ohms will be way off.I know what your saying about when people check cont,they are ohming it,but not sure if he actually ohmed it or just checked cont.
Ign. coil primary green and black/yellow wire 0.1-0.3 ohms
secondary circuit green wire andplug cap 7.4-11K ohm(K setting is important)
Alternator exciter coil black/red wire andgreen wire 50-250 ohms
Pulse generator blue/yellow wire and green/white wire 50-250 ohms

dude i know, im a audio engineer ;)

but your using the wrong terminology, you say check for resistance not ohm it:p

[kruzofman]

alright to check the woodruff key i have to pull off the flywheel, and thats it

[Dave83]

Yeah,pull the flywheel and look at the key.If its real bad you may know without pulling it.

[track 2 trail]

try a new plug cap ,had prob with mine tested ok but i put a new one on and it runs great.cheap 5$ fix

[beerock]

so any luck?

[wilkin250r]

A broken key just sounds really unlikely. Sure, it's an easy thing to check, so go ahead and check it, but I highly doubt that is the problem.

The "not running right" issues are always difficult. It's usually a very tedious, methodical, and often expensive process. It often involves replacing one component, then another, then another, until you finally stumble across something that fixes the problem.

I'd start with the easy things. Check your key. While you're in there with the flywheel off, spend several minutes looking over your stator real well.

Take your pipe off and look it over inside and out, and muffler as well. Try running a minute or so without the muffler on.

Leak down test. Problems with 2-strokes come in two varities, air-leak related and non air-leak related.

I'll mention it again, because it's important. LEAK DOWN TEST.

Check and double-check the resistance measurements of your stator and coil.

Leak down test.

Have you done a compression test?

I highly recommend a leak-down test.

[kruzofman]

well i took the flywheel off and looked at my key, and its in good shape, so im gonna do a test on the stator tomarrow and see if its making good power...let u guys know how it go's

[kruzofman]

well when i went to go take the stator cover off i noticed a little rock came out, and when i went to look over the stator i noticed there was lots of little nicks and dings in it, one looks pretty bad and looks like it eat up the stator:( any one know wear i can find a stator for a decent price...

[baseballplaya23]

just buy the cr250 ignition from esr its like 500 or something.

[wilkin250r]

Ricky Stator sells them at a decent price, a much better price than OEM through your local dealership. I think he even offers discounts if you buy both the stator and the flywheel.

www.rickystator.com

[Dave83]

Did it eat the stator or the flywheel or both?