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View Full Version : Proper way to adjust drive chain



waxer
04-21-2005, 10:03 AM
I just bought a 14 tooth Renthal front sprocket and had a question about adjusting the chain.

When checking the slack, is it necessary to take up all slack on the bottom so that the only slack there is, is on top and measure that?

The manual isn't clear on that and I want to get it done right.


Thanks in advance.

04-21-2005, 10:52 AM
I just make sure there is the correct amount of slack in the top part of the chain when the suspension is compressed. It works for me.

416mx
04-21-2005, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by gotcam?
I just make sure there is the correct amount of slack in the top part of the chain when the suspension is compressed. It works for me.

SIT ON THE BIKE AND CHECK THE CHAIN, SHOULD HAVE 3/4" TO 1 " OF SLACK!

waxer
04-21-2005, 12:55 PM
Ok, well my 2005 400EX already has a 14 tooth front sprocket stock....

Guess I'll change to a 13 tooth later on then since the dealer has to order it.

Thanks for the tips on adjusting the chain.

daredevilearth
12-12-2005, 07:36 PM
What if my bearing carrier doesnt turn. Got any suggestions or tricks to break it loose? Thanks for any input.

DaleJrFan
12-12-2005, 07:51 PM
Just out of curiosity, do you have the back tires off the ground on a jack or something. That may help a little. If the bolts wont break loose, make sure you have a good socket and you may have to use a 1/2 in drive and a cheater pipe. I owned my bike for a long while before I tried adjusting anything and it was real tight but once I broke it free, it moves anytime I want it to now.

daredevilearth
12-12-2005, 09:49 PM
The 4 bolts will come off its just that the bearing carrier wont turn so I can adjust the chain slack.

DaleJrFan
12-12-2005, 09:59 PM
oh, sorry, yeah that sucks too. what i did the first time i had to move it was use a really blunt object like a long 3/8 drive extension and a big hammer and just tap away. i really dont have a good method but i will look in the clymer and let you know what they say.

DaleJrFan
12-12-2005, 10:08 PM
well i looked in the clymer and they tell you just what you have done, but in the picture the guys hand is in the way of what ever tool he is using to move the carrier. the book didnt reccomend anything so i guess the best i can tell you is good luck!

daredevilearth
12-12-2005, 10:34 PM
Hey thanks man I will try all what you have said. Is there anything that you know of that I can spray in the crack opposite of the side of the sprocket that will help loosen it. Again I appreciate all the help.

DaleJrFan
12-12-2005, 10:40 PM
The only thing that comes to mind is some Marvins Mystery oil. That stuff works on anything. Maybe you can soak it overnight in some sort of lube. Talk to your local dealer and maybe they know some trick,lube or tool to use. Let us know what you found to use if you get it to work. Like I said, mine was tough the first time but now I work it a couple times a year and havnt had a problem since.

Chino
12-13-2005, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by daredevilearth
The 4 bolts will come off its just that the bearing carrier wont turn so I can adjust the chain slack.

take your rearend apart, and GREASE GREASE GREASE the bearings in your carrier, you should be able to stick an allen head in it and turn it easily with no effort, if you keep things greased up it's amazing how they function they way they are supposed to.

daredevilearth
12-13-2005, 09:37 AM
Just bought it used. What else needs to be greased that probably hasnt.

sickmojave
12-13-2005, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by daredevilearth
Just bought it used. What else needs to be greased that probably hasnt.

swing arm pivot bolt.... GOOD LUCK