Not Running Perfect. Help!

[400exJOE]

Ok, here's the deal. I have been haveing trouble with the quad idling. I am back to the choke and 38 pilot. The 42 was way to rich. (which I dont understand...) Any ways I replaced the plug today and that help some, but one it is warmed up, It will idle high for a while, then drop down and stall out. It can't decide where to run. Stall or rev. Also, when I come off the throttle, the engine takes a while to return back to 'idle'. It is puffing out what looks to me to be too much gas just b4 it stalls which makes my believe it is rich. Also the plug I took out looked too rich. I don't understand how it can be rich with the 440 and exhaust and K&N and lid off, but it appears to be. I have tinkered with the low speed screw and idle adjustmen with no luck. I also cleaned my carb. Maybe not well enough though. Please help me out. Thanks, JOE:(

[400exJOE]

bump

[RED121572]

My buddy is having the exact same prob with his hopped up Warrior.

Neither one of us can figure it out.

[400exJOE]

HELP?!?!?!

[Wheelie]

Double check the float level on the carb. Also, check for vacuum leaks around the intake boot between the carb and cylinder.

Another item, check the condition of the needle valve and seat, and the float for leaks.

Good Luck!

PS--Your right, a quad of that tune should have no problem handling a #40 or #42 pilot.

[nakomis0]

Did this happen after you removed your choke? I removed my choke when I had a stock carb and had a problem like that.

[400exJOE]

it is happening with bothe the 42 and no choke and the 38 with choke. It is worth with the 42 tho.

[DTRAIN]

I removed my air box lid, added a pro circuit pipe, went bigger on the main jet, but had to drop down the needle to lean it out. I don't know why, makes no sense, but it is running good now. I don't know how it could be too rich. The only thing I could think was it was way too rich before the pipe.

i was havin same problem, i reset my pilot to 2 1/4 turns out and im good to go. im running 155 main with a pipe and k&n, lid removed etc. when i checked pilot before re-adjusting it was almost 3 turns out?

[Leo]

I've got a 42 pilot, 155 main, needle clip lowered one notch, and the thing has never run better..

10.5:1 piston (stock bore) / XR camshaft / no airbox lid / FMF PCIV-Q silencer..

One thing I noticed was the bike didn't like the 165 I had in it.. Seems to run great w/ 155 though, still waiting on my 160 to get here..

Just for giggles, try putting your stock air filter back on, and then see how she runs.. sounds kind of silly , but humor me :)

I also have to turn my idle speed up when the bike is cold, then adjust it back down a hair after it warms up, but it starts / idles better cold now than it ever has before w/ the 42, and 2 1/2 turns out..

You have to get that fixed so it'll be ready for the NY EXriders ride :) (did anyone ever set a date?)

Leo

[RED121572]

Not long ago, I removed the Disks from my WB E Series. I was forced to jump from a 162 main to a 170. It ran faster, But I just couldnt get it to run right on bottom end, so I put the disk back on. Race pipes more difficult to dial in than disk type systems?? Anyone have any comments?

[400exJOE]

I think this all started when I accidentally put some pre-mix gas in the Quad. It was a 90* day and I had the 42 and no choke. I drained the rest of that gas and now has fresh 93 high test. I cleaned the carb with ether (sp?) since then. It just can't decide how to idle. Real low and dies out or real high.

[Wheelie]

Mixed gas wouldn't describe the problem you're having, it's mere coincidence that the quad ran poorly after pouring in the mixed fuel.

Read my previous post in this thread, I think it will bring the problem to light.

[400exJOE]

whats the float level? I know what the floats are and they appeared to move fine when I last had the carb apart. What type of things should I be looking for with the condition of seats and floats or anything else? Thanks guys

[Wheelie]

The float level is the level the fuel in the float bowl must reach to close the needle vavle, hence, stopping fuel flow into the carb. Remove the float and check to see if it's full of fuel. If it appears o.k. get a small jar of fuel and submerge the float and watch for air bubbles, if you see air bubbles there is a leak in the float--replace it.

See if there is any foreign material in the seat when you remove the float, also inspect the tip on the needle valve. Check for a uniform wear pattern and anything that might look unusual.

Any one of these two problems causes unmetered fuel to enter the engine, causing irradic running.

If the float is good, replace the needle valve. Hope this helps.

Good Luck!!

[deansfastway]

IF THE VALVES ARE TOO TIGHT THE MOTOR WILL NEVER IDLE RIGHT ESP WHEN HOT OR WHEN IDLING FOR APERIOD OF TIME. IF THE SPARK PLUG IS LOOSE THE THING WILL RUN FUNKY TOO, I HAVE ALSO SEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLDS COME DELAMINATED, THIS WILL CAUSE SURGE OR HUNTING IDLE. BLOWN HEAD GASKETS ALSO SUCK UNWANTED AIR. FASTWAY MOTORSPORTS