Pro design tether kill

[mountaineer]

Does anyone else have troubles with their pro design tethers? Mine will not work again. This is my third one! I have cleaned them over and over. I pull the cord and nothing till I jiggle it around then it finally shuts down. Also I have the baldwin kit so it is wired right. Spare parts are nice but this is ridiculous:ermm:

[racinron55]

Yea mine does the same thing I guess they are built kinda cheap. I will prolly get a pingel.

[crayfz]

They are cheap, but there is a set screw in there so you can take it all the way apart and clean it out, mine have not worked several times, and I just tear it apart and reassemble.

[yfz450rider29]

Alot of the Pro Design kill switches fail for the YFZ, I run the Pingel and havnt had a problem, they are more expensive, about twice as much but it is worth it.

[daddio]

Originally posted by yfz450rider29
Alot of the Pro Design kill switches fail for the YFZ, I run the Pingel and havnt had a problem, they are more expensive, about twice as much but it is worth it.

same here

[mountaineer]

Thanks for the information everyone:D

[Quad18star]

What does the Pingel (?) one look like . I hear a lot of people talk about it . I've always ran the Pro Design on my bikes and never had a problem .

[daddio]

look here:
http://www.pingelonline.com/two_piece.htm

I also used pro design teathers on all my previous bikes. blasters, banshees, 250r's etc. But on the YFZ, it gave me nothing but problems. then I discovered that the ignition wireing is totally different. I put the pingle "normaly closed" (just like stock) teather on, and I have not had any problems since.
and as a side note.......... I know 2 people with YFZ's that "tried" putting a pro-design switch on brand new bikes, and couldn't get them to work. (one was done by the Yamaha dealer). I showed them how to hook them up like baldwin does. they now work (when their clean), but both bikes have a problem "sputtering" somewhere in the 3/4 - full throttle range. Kinda like a lean condition. We have played with the jetting until we are sick of it, and both bikes run best at abnormaly lean jetting. both are piped, with air box lid removed. 45 pilot and 155 - 160 main jets. any bigger, and they run so bad, they can't even go up a small hill.
on all three of my yfz's I'm running 48 - 50 pilots and 175 - 185 mains. this weekend I even had to put my stock pipe back on, and I didn't re-jet, and my YFZ ran better than the other two.
I thought it would tend to foul the plug, but it didn't.
I beginning to think the problem with the other two YFZ's is electrical, possibly caused by hooking up the pro-design teather wrong???????????

[Quad18star]

Thanks for the link to the Pingel switch . What's the average price of one of them??

[yfz450rider29]

Somewhere about 60.

[5valves]

Pingel is the way to go. N/C switch is way better than grounding this system.
Mine is an early 04 model. (july 03) I have the stock battery and electronics.
After looking at the scematics in late 03 there was no way i was going to ground this bike to kill it.
Bob at Magnolia has a cheeper N/C switch.
Pingl is about 90 bucks, I think Bob has a N/C switch for around 45.
Give me a shout with questions if needed.
Ryon

[bstuart]

Post the info for Bob. I've been checking around for a cheaper alternative to Pingle, this might be it.

[daddio]

"gunner gasser" also makes a normaly closed switch, but I had one on my sled, and the plastic mount broke. Thats why I went with the billet alm pingle switch.

[Sandplayatv]

Change the wire harness out will a NMotiontechnology wire harness. We run a dyna tech ingition and a pro design and do not have any problems.
Call Nate at 31-262-8900
WWW.Nmotiontechnology.com

[BLURR250X]

I'm in the process of putting a pro design kill switch on my YFZ. Can anyone tell what color of wire to connect the long wire on the kill switch to. I have tried yellow and white...neither of them work.thanks

['05yfz/'85atc2]

i cant get my tether to work on my yfz, its a pro armor and i cant get the wires right on it, does anyone know the wiring? It worked fine on my 3 wheeler

[parkers30]

I just installed the Gunnar N/C switch on my YFZ, it was very easy to install and work like a charm. The switch cost me right at $45, I can see what some are saying about the mount not being as strong, but so long as you mount it somewhat protected it shouldn't be a problem

[gasboot]

Originally posted by BLURR250X
I'm in the process of putting a pro design kill switch on my YFZ. Can anyone tell what color of wire to connect the long wire on the kill switch to. I have tried yellow and white...neither of them work.thanks
long to white stater short to red stator wire but get the baldwin adapter no splicing & less stator probs down the road

[snox31]

i had trouble with my pro design too but it took a while to find it.Seemed like a fuel issue so i cleaned the carb didn't see anything.Thought it was the "charging problem" put the lights back on same thing . it would break up and backfire and run pretty bad so I pulled the tether and it stayed running so after messing with it she runs fine.I will pitch it into the trash and buy a good one i think.It will act up still sometimes and don't need that when going up the face of a 80' double.

[SRH]

i use the white wire and red wire method, works fine for me i only use it for emergency only tho, i think once is the only time i used it, its only suppose to be shut off by the key anyway not the switch or tether

[mountaineer]

I had the same problem with the miss fire issue with my pro design. I think it was messing with my cdi. I went out and bought a pingel. It was not cheap but it does'nt ground out your cdi. It is wired thru your on\off switch from your handle bar. It works great :D and no worries about grounding my cdi box. I plan on getting an aftermarket cdi and have'nt because of my pro design tether kill switch grounding it out. They cost alot of money to be grounding them out.
Thanks for the replies:)