Mobile 1 tri-synthetic formula?? For 400ex

[kineo3]

I have decided to make the switch to synthetic oil and after reading several opinions in this group I have decided to go with the Mobile 1 15w-50. I am wondering if what I bought is the right stuff. The bottle says Tri-synthetic formula. Is this the stuff alot of you guys use out there? I heard I do not need the motorcycle specific oil. Any advice is much appreciated.

[knighttime]

but lets make it easy

Yes u should use motorcycle oil. Mobil 1 makes a very good motorcycle oil (it has a pic of a crotch rocket on the bottle). Wal-Mart stocks it. Buy some and be proud. :macho

[cbrown400ex]

I use the red caped 15w-50 car oil and have not had any trouble at all. Very good oil and it holds up well.

knighttime not all Wal-Marts carry the motorcycle mobil1. All of the local stores around here carry only car oils...

CJ

[knighttime]

u gotta look real hard and its not with the car oils.

also

this isnt a flame

but if u use a car oil and say u havent had a problem yet, well thats like sayin u smoke 3 packs of cigarettes a day and u dont have a problem yet.

think about it

Originally posted by knighttime
well thats like sayin u smoke 3 packs of cigarettes a day and u dont have a problem yet.



So your sayin if I smoke 2 packs a day I'll be ok?? IF smoking is gonna cause health problems I guess I need ta sue the tobacco industry,,cuz I'm to stupid to realize inhaling smoke is bad fer me.:huh :huh :huh

[cbrown400ex]

I am positive. They had it on the discontinued rack for awhile. Them they just stopped stocking it.

I have heard nothing but good things from mobil1 15w-50. I think I will let more educated people than me get into a the "great" oil discussion. Bottom line use whatever you feel comfortable with. If paying more for oil makes you feel better (more secure about your engine), then by all means get it. But to say you shouldn't use Mobil1 red cap isn't right either. Too many good results and testimonies. No flame taken or intended.

CJ

[knighttime]

:blah

[bpimpdaddy21]

Just to clear up the confusion, I work for an auto repair shop, and the Mobil 1 automobile oil is the same as the motorcycle oil. They are the same oil, just in different bottles.

[knighttime]

There is no way they are the same oil. If that was true, u could file a class action suit and win a gazillion dollars. Mobil 1 actually even has a few different types of motorcyle oil.

They different mobil 1 oils may look the same, smell the same, and taste the same, :huh , but they ain't the same.

(check out the mobil 1 website for more info if u r really bored)

[bpimpdaddy21]

Well someone in a post just a few days ago just said that they have actually talked to a chemist from Mobil 1, who says that the oils are virtually the same. They may not be identical, but they are very similar.

[Ex'r Marlin]

I recently swithched from Honda semi synthetic oil to Mobil 1 due to the response Mickey Dunlap gave. I used automotive 10w 30w oil, but I will quickly change that to the heavier 15w 50w. Not that I have any problems with the 10w 30w, only because the hot weather is coming...... And that Mickey Dunlap specified 15w 50w.

Good luck with the switch to Mobil 1. I don't know about the tri-synthetic statement you made though, sorry.

[knighttime]

Originally posted by bpimpdaddy21
Well someone in a post just a few days ago just said that they have actually talked to a chemist from Mobil 1, who says that the oils are virtually the same. They may not be identical, but they are very similar.

Dude, dont believe all the b.s. i c posted. Yes the oils are somewhat similar, but the are formulated different to fit there application.

[jsjs97]

The trisynthetic is also what my bottle says. I have spent a reasonable amount of time researching the oil subject on the web. This is the best answer I found on the subject and I may have gotten it from a past post or else I stumbled on it somewhere. www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm This was a test ddone by a scientist and mobile one 15w-50 out performed the "motorcycle oils". Another good site to check and educate yourself is www.atving.com/editor/techtips/oiltch.html I believe in educating yourself on this matter because it is an opinion thing and some of these guys(not flaming anyone in particular) don't know anymore about some of the questions they answer than I would about rocket science. Just my opinion.

[whiteknuckle]

heres what mobil one says! and the good thing about this oil especially for 400 ex riders is that we use a dry sump for our oil dispersion and we have a wet clutch so this is a great oil!




Okay. Let's start with Mobil 1 MX4T. What does it offer that Mobil 1 for cars doesn't?
Mobil 1 MX4T is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi-cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil 1 for cars, Mobil 1 MX4T has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.

The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads. Remember, most bikes don’t have catalytic converters, so higher levels of phosphorus are not a problem.

In addition, Mobil 1 MX4T uses different dispersant/detergent technology for better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 MX4T is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger cars.

[twisted threads]

Well I also use Mobil 1 15w- 50 synthetic because of thats what my motor buildier told me to run. Also I did see in the Ex Tech were Mickey Dunlap said that running this stuff is fine and Im think he knows more then most of us on here. Just my $.02:D

[oynot400]

Here is something that one of the engineers here at work sent me when I was asking about the different oils. It is pretty long but is reall good info.

More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
by Ed Hackett (edh@maxey.unr.edu)

Editor's Note: This information appears to have been posted in a public message to rec.motorcycles. I have not been able to verify the accuracy or source for this file.
Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype.
Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base.
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc.
Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm.
The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.
The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown.
__________________________________________________ _____________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C

Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

[oynot400]

Sorry there is alot of info, but here is the rest of it.

The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available
Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc

20W-50
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
Red Line 150 503 -49 --- ---
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12

20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---

15W-50
Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- ---
Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 152 503 -49 --- ---

5W-50
Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10 .095 % Phosphor
Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- ---
Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- ---

5W-40
Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 ---

15W-40
AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 149 495 -40 --- ---
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13

10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
Red Line 139 475 -40 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12

5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
Chevron Supreme Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- ---
Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
Red Line 151 455 -49 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13
Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 <1.5 .12
All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake.
The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification.
The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.

[whiteknuckle]

ok my brain is fried now thank you! lol:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[twisted threads]

:huh :huh

[Zingnut]

I use the red capped Tri Synthetic Mobil 15w 50 and it seems to make the motor quieter and run smoother. I have ran this oil for one year and found it to be much better than the Honda synthetic I used in the first oil change. No clutch or other conditions have been noticed and I would recommend it to anyone.