keeping a 440ex cool

[turfrooster]

Ive got many mods on my 99 400ex and im thinkin about going to a 440 kit. I know they run really hott and i dont want to risk the motor..but i really want the power...What are some ways that i can keep it cool?

[j753301]

the drill and tap sencondary oil cooler from fst or make it yourself at jegs.com

[K_Fulk]

You could use a nickasiled aluminum sleeve, more expensive but it stays cooler and is a lot more reliable. You could get some scoops also.

[mx400]

go w/ a set of scoops and put a oil cooler from a car on there. I'm still tryin to figure out how I wana keep my 416 cool. Yea its not a 440 but I still don't want any problems.

[Rootar]

i think its dersert toys atv that makes drop in oil cooler that has 3x the capacity of stock but it comes at a pretty price you can get scoops, get another stock cooler and run dual coolers, one from a car, or the fst

imo i plan to do the dual stock coolers cause i already got scoops and mine is bored to a 416 i hear the 416 with the stroker to get it to 440 runs cooler and better than a 440 bore and you know you could always take some stroke out and bore agian and agian so if i go to a 440 im just gonna get ti stroked to a 440 instead of boring agian

[turfrooster]

If I did the dual stock coolersystem....Would I just drill another hole in the stock tank..or get a bigger tank...and how much would the dual cooler system help?

[S.M.C. Racing]

This is all very interesting. I am just getting into the ATV scene and i purchased a 400EX and it has a 440 big bore I plan to run scoops. But if anyone have a few pictures of this 2 cooler set up or the FST could you please post them or possible e-mail me at cminelli@shaw.ca

Thank You

[Rootar]

i got a pic saved on my cp ill post it tomorrow (im on the laptop) i dont remember exactly how the dual stock coolers are hooked up i thought you hook it up like when it comes out of the first cooler it goes in the second when it comes out the secind it then goes back to where the orginal exit tube of the first cooler goes

somebody please correct me if im wrong

[scrapen]

I have a 440 and have scoops and a air intake hoop I have had no problems with it over heating only if u just let it sit and idle but as long as you are moving there shoulnd be a lot of problems.

[k&k_400ex_82]

i believe the 440 with 11:1 compression runs cooler than the 12.5:1 compression.

[yel400]

get a pingry oil tank also

[nosliw]

Originally posted by scrapen
I have a 440 and have scoops and a air intake hoop I have had no problems with it over heating only if u just let it sit and idle but as long as you are moving there shoulnd be a lot of problems.

whats an air intake hoop?

[6858-400ex]

fst oil cooler

this thing is about 2 to 3 times bigger than stock

[yamablaster24]

scoops are mainly for looks. We did a test on a blaster and it ran maybe 2 degrees colder at speed. It may help with the oil cooler im not sure. I plan on building a 440 this winter and i was planning on getting the larger oil tank, and the FST cooler ( i have only heard of these never saw one, anyone got a link?) I might try air scoops.
I race strictly motocross so the bike only runs for 25 minutes at a time....but for the 25 minutes that bike is getting the crap beat out of it lol

[44oEX]

the second oil cooler works great. here are a couple pic where you can see the fiting and the cooler it self. this setup was done completly homemade so it`s not that hard.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid155/p7432d84f2c0122459d38eb72b34f21e5/f5683789.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid155/pe861fa917bb2bfa4c51496726547a0cc/f5683782.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid155/p7bd9b26b7e73d73e6aeaa1958545fc93/f568377c.jpg
this pic is not mine. when you make the hole for the fiting DON`T go this far. you don`t want the fitting to stike out in the bottom.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid113/pbd7cf96ff80c43d2bf421f1bcd44e716/f8f409b9.jpg

[j753301]

i just got done tapping the side case cover..its a pain because to get it tapped all the way down you have to cut about a 1/4 inch off of the tap because it bottoms out.

[6858-400ex]

is that a fst cooler

[j753301]

mine is a perma cool universal atv oil cooler i got fron jegs.
as soon as i get it all together im going to take it apart an use an fittings for everything and stainless hose,it will look so much better that way.you can put one together yourself for about 80 bucks at jegs.com.....

[44oEX]

The one I have is off a street bike The FST is to much $$ I built my own set up.

[QuAdEr 317]

somebody should make a list of everything you need atjeggs to order for this oil cooler to work ona 400ex and maybe step by step instructions along with it

[44oEX]

http://webpages.charter.net/tandrus...exCoolerMod.pdf

here you go

and you could check here to
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=124375

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by QuAdEr 317
somebody should make a list of everything you need atjeggs to order for this oil cooler to work ona 400ex and maybe step by step instructions along with it
You'll need the Perma Cool ATV cooler kit, P/N 1008, from Jegg's. It comes with pretty much all the hardware that you need, including hose, clamps, fittings, and a check ball to block the original oil passage that goes up through the side of the cylinder. You will also need an appropriately sized drill bit, pipe thread (NPT) tap, liquid pipe thread sealer (or you could probably use teflon tape), and a new clutch cover gasket. You can mount the cooler however you want, but I made a grill from expanded metal ($7 from Home Depot) that fits between the frame, just below the front shock mount brace. I zip-tied the grill in place with some thick, heavy duty zip-ties, and secured the cooler to the grill with a transmission mount kit ($5 from Checkers). When tapping the clutch cover, you will need to go slowly and use a lubricant so you don't gaull the metal. As the tap bottoms out (which it will fairly quickly), you'll have to grind or cut a bit of it off. Continue to carefully tap the cover a little at a time, shortening the tap as needed, and frequently checking fit of the fitting. Ideally, you want the fitting to thread in enough that it will be secure, have clearance from the bottom of the channel, and tighten up snugly facing forward. It doesn't have to crank down really tight, that's what the thread sealant is for. When done this way, you won't need the brass plug in the bottom of the passage that's shown in the picture. Before reinstalling the clutch cover, you will also need to install a check ball (you get two sizes, I think you want the larger one) into the passage on the engine side that goes up to the cylinder. Seal the ball in place with some high temp RTV. This will redirect the oil through the cooler. Doing the valve cover is pretty easy in comparison. You just need to remove it, drill it, tap it so that the fitting snugs down facing forward, clean it up, and reinstall it using the same metal gasket. Once everything is in place, I like to pre-fill the cooler and hoses by connecting everything except the bottom hose to the fitting, and then pump a quart of oil through to the top end using a cheap gear oil pump from Checkers (remember, the oil was drained to remove the clutch cover). Finally, install the bottom hose and clamp, add oil the regular way until it reads full on the dipstick, start the bike and check for leaks, and then top off the oil, if needed. It's really not too hard. It will require a good seletion of basic tools and a free weekend, but the benefits are worth the effort, especially on a high compression and/or big-bore bike.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid113/pbd7cf96ff80c43d2bf421f1bcd44e716/f8f409b9.jpg