250R Problem

I own a 1986/1988 Honda 250R and I can't keep up with my friends stock R. I have an ESR mid range pipe, ESR silencer, Keihen 36mm carb, V-Force Reed cage, V-Force Reeds, bored 40 over, and a K&N air filter. Along with some other aftermarket parts, like Nac's case saver, TM Design chain slider, Lonestar Super twin carrier, and so on.

All My friend has done to his 1986 250R is a K&N air filter, FMF fatty pipe, FMF silencer, and he still has standard bore along with standard carb. For some reason though, I can burn him when off the line, though second third, fourth, fifth, and sixth, but when I hit my top speed, he starts pulling closer and closer to me. Eventually he gets about two whole quad lengths ahead of me. I am not sure why. I used to have a Bill's top end pipe and a Bill's silencer and I couldn't even get him off the line. We both have standard gearing. Could someone help me out, thanks,

AirManDan

1986/1988 TRX250R, 1988 Engine and Swing Arm, 1986 Frame, bored 40 over, V-Force Reeds, ESR TRX-6 Pipe, ESR Silencer, Keihen 36mm carb, Sidewinder Sprockets, Hinson Clutch Basket, K&N air filter, Nac's Case Saver, TM Designs Chain Slider, Renthal Handlebars, CR250 Clutch lever and Perch, Lonestar Supertwin bearing carrier, Pro Design Kill Switch, Pro Design Power Shifter, Shredders all around on Douglas red labels, and a Clarke 4 gallon tank. Just bought some GBC Sand Devil Paddles on ITP rims.

Future Mods: The NEW Shiny Orange or Silver Maier plastic, new seat, Roll Design Steering stem, RPM Dominator +4 axle, RPM Hubs, Roll Design +2+1 a-arms, and some new front tires with some ITP rims.

[shane]

Sounds like you bike is tuned for bottom and mid range power where his breathes better once he gets movin.
Try changing your sprocket and jets or have you bike tuned by a pro.

Good luck

Shane

I thought about putting on a 40mm carb, aluminum intake, and a boost bottle on but I am not sure if its worth spending the extra money to go faster. I could also get an engine kit or something.

How does the changing of the sprocket teeth work? What happens when you change the front sprocket? Do you gain torque or speed when you add a smaller or larger sprocket? Same goes for the rear sprocket, what happens when you add a larger or smaller sprocket? Thanks,

AirManDan

1986/1988 TRX250R, 1988 Engine and Swing Arm, 1986 Frame, bored 40 over, V-Force Reeds, ESR TRX-6 Pipe, ESR Silencer, Keihen 36mm carb, Sidewinder Sprockets, Hinson Clutch Basket, K&N air filter, Nac's Case Saver, TM Designs Chain Slider, Renthal Handlebars, CR250 Clutch lever and Perch, Lonestar Supertwin bearing carrier, Pro Design Kill Switch, Pro Design Power Shifter, Shredders all around on Douglas red labels, and a Clarke 4 gallon tank. Just bought some GBC Sand Devil Paddles on ITP rims.

Future Mods: The NEW Shiny Orange or Silver Maier plastic, new seat, Roll Design Steering stem, RPM Dominator +4 axle, RPM Hubs, Roll Design +2+1 a-arms, and some new front tires with some ITP rims.

[flaneledholes]

Larger front = more top less bottom
Smaller front = more bottom less top
Larger rear = more bottom lessm top
Smaller rear = more top less bottom

[shane]

WORD!

Shane

[ESR250R]

86 has slightly higher gearing in 5th and 6th gear compared to the later years. i would recommend changing your rear sproket to a smaller size. going from a 13 tooth to a 14 toothon the front is quite a bit of difference and he might take u off the line again if u do that.

[brokenbones]

is your bike running an airbox if it is take it out run an esr filter jet up and change the gearing there should not be that much of a gap unless you have a tired bike and need a rebuild thats just my .02 cents

build them fast or stay at camp
brokenbones

I just rebuilt the entire engine; the clutch, the waterpump, put a new top end it, it got bored 40 over, was re-jetted, some of the gears were replaced, new crank, all new bottom end bearings, the works. Its running strong now, but not fast enough for me.

AirManDan

1986/1988 TRX250R, 1988 Engine and Swing Arm, 1986 Frame, bored 40 over, V-Force Reeds, ESR TRX-6 Pipe, ESR Silencer, Keihen 36mm carb, Sidewinder Sprockets, Hinson Clutch Basket, K&N air filter, Nac's Case Saver, TM Designs Chain Slider, Renthal Handlebars, CR250 Clutch lever and Perch, Lonestar Supertwin bearing carrier, Pro Design Kill Switch, Pro Design Power Shifter, Shredders all around on Douglas red labels, Clarke 4 gallon tank, and just bought some GBC Sand Devil Paddles on ITP rims.

Future Mods: The NEW Shiny Orange or Silver Maier plastic, new seat, Roll Design Steering stem, RPM Dominator +4 axle, RPM Hubs, Roll Design +2+1 a-arms, and some new front tires with some ITP rims.

well, mabe somethings wrong, did u break it in right, is his got bigger tires, or urs small?

[SandTrix]

Buy a cool head and have your motor ported. With a good port job your buddy will be history.

We are both using the same tires sizes in the rear, but I have smaller fronts. He is using 20x11x9 Holeshots for the rear and 22x7x10 Holeshots for the front. I am using shredders, 20x11x9 and fast trekker fronts, 21x7x10. I broke my engine in right, but I don't understand why I can't beat him.

AirManDan

1986/1988 TRX250R, 1988 Engine and Swing Arm, 1986 Frame, bored 40 over, V-Force Reeds, ESR TRX-6 Pipe, ESR Silencer, Keihen 36mm carb, Sidewinder Sprockets, Hinson Clutch Basket, K&N air filter, Nac's Case Saver, TM Designs Chain Slider, Renthal Handlebars, CR250 Clutch lever and Perch, Lonestar Supertwin bearing carrier, Pro Design Kill Switch, Pro Design Power Shifter, Shredders all around on Douglas red labels, Clarke 4 gallon tank, and just bought some GBC Sand Devil Paddles on ITP rims.

Future Mods: The NEW Shiny Orange or Silver Maier plastic, new seat, Roll Design Steering stem, RPM Dominator +4 axle, RPM Hubs, Roll Design +2+1 a-arms, and some new front tires with some ITP rims.