Building a sub box

[TGW_400ex]

I'm making 2 single sub sub boxes in my woodshop class for school here are the domensions should these domensions work?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p5406483384f765e4a65bc66fe0a474b5/f5079fdb.jpg

[02Yellow400]

You can not awnser that question untill you let us know what kind of sub you are using. And also what kind of sound you are looking for and also what the recomended cu. ft. for the sub is. Sealed im assuming? I'm assuming you are using MDF to build these?

[TGW_400ex]

Originally posted by 02Yellow400
You can not awnser that question untill you let us know what kind of sub you are using. And also what kind of sound you are looking for and also what the recomended cu. ft. for the sub is. Sealed im assuming? I'm assuming you are using MDF to build these?

The sub is in my sig its 400w rms 800 peak, yes it is sealed, and if mdf is fiberboard then yes.

[FasstMidnightZ]

ya looks good , i would make it a little thicker though n a hole in the top or back , imo

[TGW_400ex]

Originally posted by hondaexrider
ya looks good , i would make it a little thicker though n a hole in the top or back , imo

its 5/8 inch thick wood. Do you mean a port hole? I don't think I have enough room for one?

[kazpr]

If that is for a 12" it will be small. Most you could get is about .9 cu ft. W/out taking out for sub volume.

I used to own a truck like yours and a full box for one 12 sounds very nice in there.
Actually it hit so hard I felt sorry for the person in passenger side since that is where the sub fired :)

[TGW_400ex]

Originally posted by kazpr
If that is for a 12" it will be small. Most you could get is about .9 cu ft. W/out taking out for sub volume.

I used to own a truck like yours and a full box for one 12 sounds very nice in there.
Actually it hit so hard I felt sorry for the person in passenger side since that is where the sub fired :)

I already have all the wood cut do you think it will sound ok?

[TGW_400ex]

Bump

dood, look it.. if you want to do this right, listen up, if you want to do it half assed, do it your way.

1. get the thiel-small parameters..
2. do a google search on converting TS parameters into cu3
3. build your box to that exact internal volume.
4. install it, and go boom

or your way would be

1. build a box that will end up hurting your sub
2. then come and post a thread mainly whining how you totally hosed your subs due to improper enclosure volume.
3. let everyone laugh at you for not listening to the suggestions you asked for

hope that helps

Jesse

[flat_track400ex]

when i made mine get either MDF or pardical board

DONT USE PLY WOOD trust me if flexs wayy too much

i used 3/4in all around and use 1" for the front of the box

yea use mdf, but if you use different thickness's it will cause some issues with pressure inside the inclosure..

this comes from years of competition caraudio experience..

heres a little trick, once you have it all done, build another box around it.. ie. make it 1.5 inches thick with 2 peices of 3/4 and you will get 3 more db at the box.. and if you want nice clean tight bass, DO NOT PORT THE BOX, if you want sloppy "im a retarded bass kiddy bass" then port away.. but again, there is a formula for ports so dont just go start cutting holes if you like slop sounding stuff

Jesse

[flat_track400ex]

i agree porting it will make it louder but not hit near as tight of bass hits
the only type of porting that i have heard that sounded half decent was a slot port design

[Fender Bender]

www.the12volt.com ...LOTS of handy tutorials, calculators too.

I build woofer enclosures as a second income source.

1. DO NOT USE PARTICLE BOARD. Use 3/4-5/8" MDF or a wood of equal strength. Particle board will quite literally explode under that pressure.

2. You need to consider things such as bracing. Bracing is also very important. When I build box's for 2 woofers, I normally use 1 brace, between the two. More can never hurt. Bracing Info (http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/bracing/index.html)

3. When you assemble, glue all the edges. Drill your screws 3" apart, and use A LOT of glue to seal it. Like bracing, excess is better than not having enough. Most will recommend to stay away from any caulking material as it can eat away at your woofers, but if you have to use it be sure to let it cure for 48 hours (to be safe).

4. You may also want to get something such as fiberwool to put inside the enclosure. It will help reduce standing sound waves, which are response fluctuations.

5. In your subwoofers manual, it will tell you the recommended airspace required per driver. Take into consideration the volume of your woofer, and your bracing.

This should clear some things up for you, if you have any more questions I'd be glad to answer what I can.

a port is absolutly worthless without the proper diamiter and depth (meaning you have to have a port tube in the hole, not just a hole) and a sealed inclosure can be a ton louder than a ported box in a isobaric setup

Jesse

[TheJaspMan]

Also keep in mind that bass is more related to air movements than sound levels. If the sub is firing directly against something it will probably ruin it and sound like crap. It needs space in front to 'push' the air. The port hole is also directional. It's not just something you throw in. The diameter, length and angle all make an important diffrence.

My suggestion is do a little extra research before cutting anything else. Here is a link that I use for these type of applications.


Click here to do it correctly (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#por)