aftermarket ball joints laeger /lsr honda

[1 BAD 450r]

Does any one know where leager or lone star gets the ball joints that they use.I was told that the ball joints that we use on the aftermaket a arms, are tie-rod ends on some mazda or nissian.Has any one heard of that .I have found some that are very close but not right.

[EvilJester400EX]

I believe they're Volkswagon tie rod ends.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by EvilJester400EX
I believe they're Volkswagon tie rod ends.

And they're from a 70's era Volkswagen Beetle if I'm not mistaken.

[Rich250RRacer]

Originally posted by 1 BAD 450r
Does any one know where leager or lone star gets the ball joints that they use.I was told that the ball joints that we use on the aftermaket a arms, are tie-rod ends on some mazda or nissian.Has any one heard of that .I have found some that are very close but not right.

I don't know about Laeger, but in my Lonestar arms, I use Moog part number ES3045RL. If you have a GOOD auto parts store (like the one I work at) in your area, you can probably get an off brand such as Federated, TRW, Pro Quality and many others for about half the price of the Moog part. I believe Moog is the manufacturer Lonestar buys their ball joints from. I've matched the casting numbers on them, they are the same. Lonestar does thread them a little farther down when they get them so they will screw down farther, but I've never done this and haven't had a problem. If you can't find them by this part number, just ask for tie rod ends for an 89-98 Geo Tracker.

[NacsMXer]

Good info! This should be put in the FAQ if it's not already there.

[ATV403]

1968 Volkswagen Beetle part # ES419R. Fits older Laeger and Houser. some of them even come with grease fittings. I ordered five from NAPA and got four different styles. So I would recommend going somewhere else.

[bradley300]

the newer style leager's are a custom ball joint that mark laeger designed, there not off a car so you have to buy them from him.

[dantwo]

The LSR ball joints are also custom made. They are not off any car. You can find some close, but they will not work properly.

[QuadRacer041]

Originally posted by dantwo
The LSR ball joints are also custom made. They are not off any car. You can find some close, but they will not work properly.

if the tapper is the same and the thread size is the same how can they not work right.
ive done this sevral times to differnt sets of lsr a arms and never had a problem.they say there custom made so they can make the $30 and people who dont know any better dont go and get the same thing for $15.

[Rich250RRacer]

Originally posted by QuadRacer041
if the tapper is the same and the thread size is the same how can they not work right.
ive done this sevral times to differnt sets of lsr a arms and never had a problem.they say there custom made so they can make the $30 and people who dont know any better dont go and get the same thing for $15.

Somebody tried telling me the same thing, like I said in my previous post, the casting numbers on the Moog and LSR are exactly the same. I sell Moog chassis parts everyday and have for the past 12 years, I know a Moog part when I see one. If LSR has changed this, it must have happened in the last 2 or 3 years, since it's been that long since I've paid their inflated prices for a ball joint. Some of these chassis guys will tell you that you'll experience bump steer using automotive units, but I haven't seen that yet.

[QuadRacer041]

yea, they just want to suck us for as much as they can.

[dantwo]

Well I am sure you looked into this thoroughly, but you need to look closer and read what I said. They are similar and they will work on some a-arms. You will run into binding issue because the automotive joints do not have near the travel that the LSR joints have. So if you are running the long travel a-arms, those automotive joints will break. They do not have the needed travel with what the a-arms are demanding. Also the pivot location to the spindle has been change to improve performance. That is a big change from what the automotive joints do not have. Now let’s get into the guts of the joints. Most of the old automotive joints have a spring that applies pressure against the joint. Well after using those joints we learned that the spring fails and you get play in your joint. In the LSR joint, it has a self lubing material that is solid and dose not fail. So just looking at them it is easy to make the mistake thinking that they are the same, when they are not. Sorry if you are unhappy with the price I am not trying to make a living on just ball joint. The margins are just not their. I wish I did the quantities that the auto companies do. That would bring the price down.

[QuadRacer041]

you can give all the tech info you want, the lonestar jionts last the same amount of time as the auto ones. as far a binding goes, lsr always had trouble with bj's breaking on lt's in the past. ask spader, thats why he went back to his roll front end on his lsr chassis, he kept breaking jionts, and im sure since he was sponsored by lsr he wasnt using auto ones.

[Rich250RRacer]

You're avoiding the issue of the casting numbers on the LSR and Moog parts being the same. Why?

[dantwo]

I have one of our ball joints in my hand and the only marking on it is the word FRAP. I know that the MOOG / TRW ball joints do not have that marking.... I am not avoiding anything you are just not up to date. We have been making these ball joints for over two years now. I used to use before the Ricky Stator joints and I can not remember what markings where on those. Anything else I missed or do you still think I am making this up.
Dan @ LSR

[dantwo]

As for the Spader issue, you are right. He was breaking Moog / TRW joint. That is why I changed to the Ricky Stator joints for one. Then when we started doing the long travel those could not do what I wanted. Then I had my own design made. I sponsor people like Spader to get feed back and to improve our products, which I have done.