1/4 inch of toe in, grabs ruts and is very sensitive to imput.

[cummingetit]

I'm tying to align the front end of my quad. I spent the time to do a very accurate job on the alignment so I know it is not a side to side issue. What kind of toe in are you guys running? How are you measuring?

[balls2da-wall]

I eye ball it! I absoulutly hate alligning the front end! i would say mine is 1/4-1/2 toe in...I have a +1 front end and a standard axle so its hard for me to measure it all out! Are you running extended a-arms? that might cause more feed back

[QuadRacer041]

the problem your describing is a caster problem not a tow problem.from what i was told when setting up my mx bike, you should have about 5/8" negative caster, which means your front ball jiont should be 5/8" behind the lower.if you have adjustable aftermarket a arms you can change it, if your a arms are non adjustable your stuck, install a steering dampner.making the a arms wider changes the geomitry, the wider you go the more twichy your front end will be(on a stock geomitry chassis anyways).aftermarket chassis are made to run with wider a arms.

[cummingetit]

burgard + 2 with 4/1 rims

[400exrider707]

If you go on to doug gusts website he tells you that he actually runs his wheels with no toe in. Most people run with 1/8-1/4 inch of toe in but for some reason he suggests no toe in and set them up exactly straight, he claims it will do wonders for your handling.

[ex101]

If the quad is level on the floor,just eyeball the outside of front tire and line it up w/ the outside of the rear tire.Probably the most you will need is 1/8 inch toe in.I set mine up straight and it tracks fine.;)

[ex101]

After getting the wheels as straight as you can ,take a tape measure and check the front width and back width of front tire. Make sure before adjustment to lock down the handlebars.:p

[Meat]

i set toe-in either 1\4 or 3\8th. I don't understand how Doug Gust can run zero toe. Wheel toe and bump steer go hand in hand. When your suspension compresses, your toe-in gets less and less, if your shocks compress enough your toe can go to toe-out..... thats what causes bump steer. If you set the toe-in at 3\8th when the shocks are at rest...... when you reach the maximum shock travel you should still be in a toe-in situation. If you have the toe set at zero when the quad is at rest, when the shocks go though thier motion a toe-out situtation occurs... and causes bump steer. Am I making sense?

And Quadracer041 is correct about a squirrly\twitchy front end being caused by the castor adjustment. Stand over one of your front tires and look at the upper ball joint, it should be slightly towards the rear of the quad in relation to the lower A-arm ball joint. Positive caster. The more you "lay back" the upper ball joint, the more stable the quad will be at high speeds.... but it comes with a cost, steering precision is diminished. In contrast if you run less caster, the steering will be quicker, but the quad will be twitchy and a handfull to ride at WOT speeds. You need to find a happy medium. Desert racers will lay back that upper ball joint to 6, 7, 8 degrees of positive caster, they need a quad that is stable and not twitchy at high speeds. MX and XC racers usually will sacrifice some high speed stabilty for a more quicker\preciser(is preciser a word?) steering quad. They will run around 4 or 5 degrees caster, or like QR041 said... about 5\8th of an inch of caster. Trail riders with adjustable caster A-arms need to find a happy medium. Shorter and longer swingarms also mess with the handling and you' can stabalize any negative effects of a differernt swingarm by adjusting the caster.

-denny:chinese: