Andy Lagzdins' GNCC Pro TRX450R Buildup

[Andy Lagzdins]

Well, it's that time of year again. Two weeks until the first GNCC in Texas. Time to take everything you have learned from testing during the off-season and put together the best quad you can for the opener. You were testing during the off-season, Right?

This thread is a look at how I will be setting my machine up for the the first GNCC of 2005. I hope the information in this overview might help other racers set their own quads up for the GNCC's, or help casual riders make their quads more fun and reliable for trail riding.

This is a photo of the TRX450R that I used for the GNCC's in 2004, starting with the Patriot in Virginia. I used this quad at all the following GNCC's, and after the season was over it became a test bed for new parts and set-ups.

[#1speedbump]

nice quad. Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn those hand guards are BIG

[Andy Lagzdins]

It helps to have big ***** handguards when it's 25 degrees out and you're busting through ice puddles all day!

This is the front end I've been using the last few weekends. Laeger +1" long-travel arms with Elka Elite shocks. The shocks are 20" long and are high and low speed compression adjustable. This front end works good, but I'll be putting Roll Design arms on the 2005 quad and try to get them dialed-in over the next two weeks. The width of this front end at the widest point is 45 3/4" with 4+1 offset wheels.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The swingarm I ran all last year and over this winter is a JB +1 1/8" with skidplate mounts and chain guide. I had two of them and had no failures of any kind. I ran the Elka linkage with a stock length Elka elite shock. The shock on this quad is from Brad Page's 450R that we ran at the Iowa 12hr. I had to borrow it from Brad for the weekend because my two rear shocks were stuck in Canadian customs while shipping to Elka for rebuilds!

This quad has a Duncan 470cc big bore cylinder, 12:1 JE piston, CRF450 cam, and 1mm oversize valves. I've been running it hard and often with absolutely no problems. It really hasn't needed any jetting changes since we first set it up, and I'm currently running a 195 main.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here's the beginnings of my new quad. I picked this up last week from Motorcycle Factory Inc in Woodbridge Virginia.

Yeah, it's pretty cold in Maryland in January. I work on my race quads and bikes in a poorly-heated section of the DirtFirst shop, and I have to bundle up when it gets below 20 degrees out.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The first step is to take off everything you're not going to use and get it out of the way. The less parts you have kicking around your shop area the better. I usually sell off alot of the stock parts on Ebay or sell them to customers that come into DirtFirst. Sometimes I regret selling a part or two when I'm reselling the quad, but I like to get a little extra money when I putting the new quad together, and selling the stock parts off helps.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here are the stock parts that I am going to use on the quad. I try to keep everything organized and use all the original hardware if possible. It helps when everything is clean and new! It's really amazing when you realize how much of the original quad is replaced with aftermarket parts. Now that we are running production-based quads, at least I don't have to build-up 250R motors from scratch each year.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The next step is to get the motor buttoned up. This quad is going to get a 470cc Duncan National kit installed. The cylinder is bored and replated. The cylinder head gets the valve guides pressed out and the porting done; then new guides are pressed in and the valves installed with heavy-duty valve springs. The cam is a CRF450 cam. I have decided to use the Duncan XC grind because I like the torque the motor makes with this cam. The piston is a JE-made Duncan-spec with 12:1 compression. I run Cam2 110 octane leaded racing fuel.

[Andy Lagzdins]

This is the Duncan 470cc piston and cylinder compared to the stock parts. The skirts on the JE piston are shorter, and the lighter weight of the piston helps it rev quicker. You can see the deeper valve pockets in the top of the piston; a sure indication of a high-compression piston.

[Andy Lagzdins]

This is such a crucial point of the assembly. I try to double check everything during the motor assembly, and take every precaution to avoid having a problem when we get to the track. When the deadline is so close, the last thing you want to be doing is tearing your motor apart at the last minute because of a leaky gasket or some other avoidable problem.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I've just finished adjusting the shim sizes to get the desired valve clearances. I run .010" intake and .012" exhaust, and set the compression release lever clearance at .022". I go over everything one last time and then bolt on the valve cover.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I have installed the Duncan FatBoy4 exhaust. The head pipe is stainless steel and the canister is aluminum with billet aluminum end caps. This is a great exhaust system, and it comes with a handful of jets and a lifetime guarantee. I always use a new copper crush washer at the cylinder head, and retorque the exhaust nuts after the motor is run. A little high-temp copper silicone at the pipe/muffler junction is good, and of course loc-tite on all mounting bolts.

The clutch cover is a billet aluminum Duncan unit made by Hinson. It adds a little oil capacity to your transmission, and is tougher than the stock cast cover. The hard anodize coating holds up real well, much better than the coating on the stock clutch cover.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The FatBoy4 exhaust has an optional turn-down tip. This is a must for GNCC's; it not only redirects the exhaust sound down a little, but it also let's you sandwich in a spark arrestor or other baffling device. I ran this pipe on my TRX and YFZ last year and never failed a sound test. I know that the testing wasn't very consistent last year, but my Honda tested as low as 98db and no higher than 102db. It was a good feeling to not have to worry about passing tech while others were running around getting their pipes repacked.

[jeepnrocks]

hey andy what are the 2 circles that look to be machined into each intake valve cutout for?
also what ids the bronze colored material in the valve cutouts in the piston ? dont mind me im an enginetard. also i really think that clutch cover is going to add unwanted weight to the quad. fortunately im not a pro and i could definitely use that clutch cover for an intimidation factor at the harescrambles this year. just pm me and i'll give you my addy so i can take it off your hand for ya :D :D
also how do you feel about an fcr carb for xc, i have heard different opinions on it. i have a sparks 41mm fcr that i bought to try out. I havent installed it yet but I'm very anxious to try it out.

[Punk'd]

very nice lookin

[chad502ex]

Motorcycle Factory Inc. is the best!

Mark (the owner) over there at the Motorcycle Factory has been given me and my friends incredible deals over there on purchase of HONDA quads.


Andy when race season starts up, do you get a chance to go out to ride on weekends? I would love to get a chance to hook up with you and roost together.

Nice setup btw!

chad

[Andy Lagzdins]

jeepnrocks-
hey andy what are the 2 circles that look to be machined into each intake valve cutout for?
also what ids the bronze colored material in the valve cutouts in the piston ?
I think it's just glare in the photo. There isn't anything in the valve cutouts.

also i really think that clutch cover is going to add unwanted weight to the quad.
The extra weight is such a small amount, it's worth sacrificing a few ounces to gain even a little more oil capacity in your transmission.

also how do you feel about an fcr carb for xc, i have heard different opinions on it. i have a sparks 41mm fcr that i bought to try out.
I like having a real easy-to-push thumb throttle. I don't think you can get stock throttle feel with an FCR, but I haven't run one so I could be wrong. The stock carb is plenty for me in the woods.

chad502ex-
Motorcycle Factory Inc. is the best!
Yeah, those guys are all riders/racers, and they understand what their customers need.

Andy when race season starts up, do you get a chance to go out to ride on weekends? I would love to get a chance to hook up with you and roost together.
I try to ride at least every weekend, and during the week whenever possible. I ride in the early morning during the week so I can get to work in the early afternoon.

[Andy Lagzdins]

This is my choice for a filter system. I have run K&N filters in the past, but I like the extra protection of a dual-layer foam filter just in case the race turns into a slop-hole mudfest. Sometimes the rain comes on so quick at the races that it's hard to switch filters and have your jetting stay right. I eliminate the hassle and worry by running a foam filter. The 450 motors make such good power that it's not like your trying to squeeze every bit of power out of the quad anyway. Motor rebuild on the four-strokes are costly; I think it's worth giving up some hp for better filtration.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The ProDesign filter kit is real easy to install, and you don't have to modify the airbox. I oil both inner and outer foam elements with PJ1 spray-on filter oil and work the oil into the foam real good. I use the HRC kit airbox lid.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Now that I have the motor finished (other than jetting), I'm going to work on getting the front end together. I've started by installing a Roll Design +1" steering stem. I like the extra height mainly to get my riding position correct since I am 6'1" tall. It also makes it easier on my lower back. Make sure you re-install the bottom seal collar before you loc-tite the nut on.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The GPR steering dampner adds about an inch or so to the bar height, so take this into account if you are buying one. The dial can be adjusted on the fly, and has 8 increments marked on it. I usually run mine at 3 to 3 1/2. These dampners are real reliable and simple to install.

[Andy Lagzdins]

This is the Roll Design Lobo XC front end I'm using on my quad. It uses 20" shocks and is +1" and 1.7" forward. I start off by taking an inventory of the parts and make sure I have everything I need to install the front end without any holdups. Then I grease all the bushings and then start mounting the arms.

[roughrider01]

Lots of good information your posting here Andy, thanks!

Laeger A-Arms dont give you the option of running the grease zerks on the top or the bottom of the arms? Seems like something they need to look into. Grinding down the a-arm mounts just seems like a pain in the butt. My houser arms lets the rider pick where they want them.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here is the front end installed with the Elka Elite shocks. The shocks are quad-rate and have high and low speed compression adjustment as well as rebound. At this point I am able to tighten the tierod ends, spindle-to-spherical joint adapter nuts, and lower spherical nuts. I use loc-tite on all these nuts and cotter pin everything wherever possible. When you are getting ready to tighten nuts onto shafts with cotter pin holes in them, take time to position the cotter pin holes so you will have easy access to them. Nothing's worse than trying to wrestle a cotter pin through its hole when it's lined up right into the spindle.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The front end is in place, and the tierods and upper spherical bearings have been left loose; these will be tightened when the final front end alignment is done with the quad on the ground. I have installed a set of Duncan steel braided brake lines and a Duncan front bumper. The quad is actually starting to take shape again, and next I'll be installing the rear swingarm/axle/shock.

[ZRider400]

Originally posted by roughrider01
Lots of good information your posting here Andy, thanks!

Laeger A-Arms dont give you the option of running the grease zerks on the top or the bottom of the arms? Seems like something they need to look into. Grinding down the a-arm mounts just seems like a pain in the butt. My houser arms lets the rider pick where they want them.

thats a good question because i just looked at my new laeger LT's, and looks like they can be run so the zerks are on the bottom. Thats also how the lower a-arms are...the grease zerks are on the bottom, so i figure the tops would be put on that way too.

[jeepnrocks]

The extra weight is such a small amount, it's worth sacrificing a few ounces to gain even a little more oil capacity in your transmission.
:( i knew tht, it was my poor attempt at humor :)

[spincr4hire]

quad is looking great Andy, keep the pics coming!

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here I have most of the parts for the rear end of my quad. Both my rear shocks were held up in Canadian customs for 1 1/2 weeks, and they are due to arrive in a few days. I'm going to go ahead and assemble everything else and pop the shock on when I get it.
The parts are: Roll Design +3/4" swingarm, RPM Dominator XC axle, Baldwin Motorsports twin-row carrier and brake hub, Elka linkage, Duncan brake line and blockoff plate.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Most aftermarket swingarms come with the bearings pressed in, but that's about it. You either have to use the caps, collars, and seals from your original swingarm, or buy an inexpensive PivotWorks kit to complete the job. Use a brush to coat everything with a good waterproof moly bearing grease, or if you have zerk fittings, pump it full of grease.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here I'm tightening the swingarm pivot bolt and nut. The Honda torque specification is 80 ftlbs, but I take it to 90 ftlbs. If you tighten it too much, it will stretch the threads on the end of the bolt and eventually break it.
I make sure I've got the threads on the swingarm pivot bolt clean by spraying some brake cleaner on them, coat the threads with red loctite, and install a brand new nut.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I use red loctite on the pivot bolt threads and safety wire the nut to the frame. At the end of the Pont de Vaux 12 hour race last year, the pivot bolt nut was dangling off the end of the bolt, held on only by the brake lever! I don't take any chances anymore.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The swingarm is bolted up tight. I installed the stock linkage piece and the Elka link. The Elka link needs the stock three collars to be taken from the original linkage. If yours are worn, order up the OEM Honda collars. The bolts are loctited and torqued to spec.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The axle is first slid into the carrier, and then the carrier is filled with a grease gun. Then I put a light coating of grease on the inside of the swingarm and slide the axle/carrier into the swingarm. Install the disc on the antifade nut and loctite the disc mounting bolts. Slide the antifade nut onto the axle, put the OEM circlip on and hand tighten the locknut. The axle nut will be tightened once the quad is on the ground.
I am using the stock Honda hubs. The axle is a -2 +1 and with ITP wheels I usually run it all the way wide or with the small spacers on the outside, depending on the track. If you buy an RPM axle, get the extra-thick sprocket hub- it's only a few dollars more.
When buying an antifade nut, make sure it has a steel sleeve where the seal rides. This keeps the fade nut from wearing out as quick.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Loose hubs are a common problem. I coat the axle threads with red loctite and use the ballsey-est air impact I have. I let it rip until the nut just won't turn anymore and then put a cotter pin through it. I rarely ever have a hub come loose, and I've never damaged the threads on an RPM axle while installing the hub nuts.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here's the drive train. Sunstar 13t front sprocket, 36t rear sprocket, Regina o-ring chain, and Duncan case saver. Remember to loctite the sprocket bolts front and back. We usually use a chain for two races and then put it on a practice quad, especially if it's a extremely rocky, sandy or muddy track.

[AtvMxRider]

Andy this is with out a doubt the best build up article I have ever read. You are doing a great job and the quad looks great.

[250RXCrider]

Andy...could you explain the theory behind a 13 tooth front spocket and a 36 tooth rear. Is this a good alternative to a 13T front and stock 38T rear? The problem I am having is with the 38T rear, a 14t front is to tall and the 13t front is to low. Thanks and great build up article!

[Pappy]

excellent article andy!

[Motoman440]

Originally posted by Pappy
excellent article andy!

Ditto!!!

[ex kid]

cool thread. how much of a difference does the 470 kit make?

[ex kid]

and why the CRF cam opposed to the HRC cam?

[jeepnrocks]

stock gearing is 14/38 which yields a drive ratio of 2.714
droppn to a 13 front take you to a 2.923
his gearing is 13/38 whiich yields a 2.769 gear ratio.
im very interested in this becasue im going to be racing xc and with my current setup i feel the 13/38 gearing isnt going to be right yet i also feel the 14/38 may be a little tall.
i dont know what the owner of the bike thinks and you guys may laff but with smaller the sprockets you have the less rotational mass on the motor. the only problem is that smaller sprockets wear out faster.

[sampleez]

it said he had a 36 on the rear. and props to andy for the bad***** mullet!!!!! rock on brotha

[TWISTED]

That's not a mullet. He has the real deal. Long all the way around.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Time to get the controls situated. Here I've started bolting on The bars. They are Renthal FatBars- CR Hi bend.
The clutch perch is a Works Connection with thumb-operated hotstart. The clutch lever has two small bearings on the pivot bolt. The CRF450 Works lever assembly needs a different adjusting barrel to fit the large-diameter TRX cable housing, or you can carefully drill out the one that comes with it.
Stock thumb throttle and front master cylinder.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The clutch side of the bars has knurling on it to help keep the grip in place. The throttle side is smooth, however, and I take a razor blade to it and cut a crosshatch pattern into the bar to help keep the grip from twisting. This in conjunction with grip glue and safety wire eliminates grip turning.

[Andy Lagzdins]

It's hard to see in this photo, but here I have all the controls in place and only minor adjustments will be needed before riding.
The grips are 2004 CRF450 clutch side, and have a half-waffle pattern. If you use bike grips on your quad with a thumb throttle, MAKE SURE you trim the grip flange where the thumb lever is!
The handguards are Cycra ProBend. I toss the mount kit that comes with the Cycra guards and use a Moose ProTaper mount kit. The Moose kit is a beefier, more straightforward design, and you can easily space the guards further away from the levers if you need to. I coat all the handguard hardware with loctite.

[Andy Lagzdins]

My choice for footpegs are Roll Design with kick-up on the ends. The nerf bars are AC Racing. I was never a big fan of nerf bars in the past, but the last couple of years the speeds through the rough stuff have gotten to the point where sometimes my feet are all over the place. With Tireballs, you can banzai nasty rock sections without worrying about flats- it's all about going as fast as you can without getting thrown off!

[Andy Lagzdins]

To make the Roll pegs attach to the AC nerfs, you need these 4" long bolts. They don't come with the pegs or the nerfs, so you need to get them from a metric hardware store. There is no drilling or cussing needed to install this setup.

[Andy Lagzdins]

250RXCrider-
...could you explain the theory behind a 13 tooth front spocket and a 36 tooth rear. Is this a good alternative to a 13T front and stock 38T rear? The problem I am having is with the 38T rear, a 14t front is to tall and the 13t front is to low.

I think 13/36 gearing is good GNCC track gearing. Anything taller is too tall, and anything lower makes me feel like I'm shifting too much. There have only been a couple of situations where I wished I had a 37 on the back.


ex kid
how much of a difference does the 470 kit make? and why the CRF cam opposed to the HRC cam?

The 470 kit is a noticable difference. It makes more power and keeps a good broad powerband. The only thing that I noticed was some extra wheelspin during initial throttle opening, but you can take care of that with a different tire selection, decreased tire ball pressure, or shorter swingarm.
I did not try the HRC cam with the 470 kit, I just installed the cam from the kit.

jeepnrocks
i dont know what the owner of the bike thinks and you guys may laff but with smaller the sprockets you have the less rotational mass on the motor. the only problem is that smaller sprockets wear out faster.

A smaller diameter sprocket on the rear gives you a little extra space for the skidplate to get mashed in before in starts getting ground up by the chain.
Smaller sprockets with the same ratio have less links to break, and the sprockets and chain weigh a little less.


sampleez
props to andy for the bad***** mullet!!!!! rock on brotha

I've been to my share of Metallica concerts in the past, but I don't have a flippin' mullet! DANG!

[Z-135]

Andy,
Do you feel that there is no need to gusset the frame? Great write up! Thanks!

[Andy Lagzdins]

Now I would like to get the quad off the stand and on the ground, which means- time for TireBalls!
Here a DirtFirst mechanic starts by setting up a nice clean area with everything needed to complete the job: tires, balls, wheels, air regulator, ball lube, valve core tool, beadlock ring hold-down studs, impact gun & sockets, and a big smile. It helps so much when everything is new and clean; nothing is worse than having to deal with dirty balls.
The instructions that TireBalls supplies with their balls are very detailed, and have great pictures.

[Andy Lagzdins]

My normal TireBall pressures are right around 5lbs. I've tried about every different combination of TireBall pressure, ITP tires, and number of balls per tire.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Front tires are 22x7x10 ITP Holeshot HD. These are mounted on 4+1 offset ITP ProSeries beadlock wheels. This is what I use most of the time on the front, rain or shine.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Rear tires are 20x11x9 ITP Holeshot HD. These are also mounted on ITP beadlocks, 9x8. I use this setup on the rear if it is really rutted or raining. The Palatka, Florida GNCC is a good example of where I would break out these tires.
Sometimes you have to make last-minute decisions on tire choice, like at Millfield, Ohio last year. The rain started while we were on the start line! The morning race that day was dusty, and the PM race was a mudhole.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here are the tires I run for the majority of the races during the year: ITP Holeshot XC 20x11x9. I feel these tires are the best all-around size and tread pattern.

[cletusEX]

Awesome write up and a helluva nice quad!

[Andy Lagzdins]

My Elka rear shocks showed up, having been finally released from customs. Here is a photo of how I run the rear shock hose up to the front of the quad. In the past I ran the hose inside the motor mount plate to tuck it in, but it makes it more involved to change rear shocks that way. I haven't had any problems with the hose getting damaged on the outside of the frame.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The rear shock reservoir gets placed here, and I use plenty of zip ties to keep the hose under control. I don't want the hose getting rubbed through.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The fuel tank is an IMS 4.0 gallon with dry-break cap. All the stock hardware is transferred to the new tank. Remember to drill the hole for the vent line elbow before you put the petcock and cap on, it's easier to blow out the shavings. Also make sure the dry-break returns securely after being depressed by hand. If it doesn't you have to clearance the inside of the tank.

[Andy Lagzdins]

In addition to the o-ring around the dry-break insert, I also use a cork gasket under the cap just to make sure it does not leak.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I've mounted the tank using all the stock hardware and straps. I Loctite the front mount bolts. I put some Cam 2 110 octane fuel in the quad to run the quad a little to make sure everything is working properly. I'll run the quad now and then through the build-up to help break in the motor.

[Andy Lagzdins]

For jetting I run the following: 50 pilot, 195 main, and the HRC kit needle with the clip in the 3rd position. The airscrew is adjusted at 2 turns out.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here i've installed a ProDesign kill switch. Her is a photo of how I route the wiresdown next to the hot start cable.

[Andy Lagzdins]

In this photo you can see where I've tapped into the green and black/white wires that usually go to that white plug in the front. The short kill switch wire goes to the green wire on the quad. I like to keep plugs on these wires so it's easy to install a fresh killswitch without cutting any wires.

[Michelle]

Andy
Do you just not gusset your frame because it's new or not at all?
Great thread very nice quad.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The first 450r I rode for 4 months as a national quad, and a few more months as a practice quad had three stress areas on the frame. The top frame tubes just behind the motor cracked on both sides, the area under the footpegs had some cracks, and the front brake line tee mount tube cracked on both attachment points. This is the only frame that I have had this happen on, but I try to start using a new quad every six months. I like to have the reliability of a new machine half way through the season.

One thing I have noticed that contributes to frame problems is setting up your suspension too soft and hammering for 2 hours on it. I know sometimes this is unavoidable, but bottoming out a rear shock 10 times a lap at a GNCC can't be good for a frame.

Some people tend to gusset a frame too much, and make things worse because the frame becomes too rigid in the wrong spots.

The quads we used at the 12 hour races in Pont de Vaux and Iowa were stock with no gusseting, and had no problems.

I'm not sure what kind of breakage MX guys are having with their Hondas, but not gusseting the frame on the 450r works for me.

If you do decide to gusset your frame, get the gusset kit from a reputable source, and have it TIG welded by a professional with frame experience.

[Ty's400]

Awesome Buildup! It's always nice to see a top rider take time to show how they build their machines up.

[89'350RX]

WOW very nice....almost too nice to take out and get dirty :)

Any idea on what kind of $$ you will have invested?

[Andy Lagzdins]

For my swingarm skidplate I run a PRM .25 thickness plate. These are really tough. I cut down the plate as shown in the photo. Alot of people are probably going to disagree with this, but I feel it helps lessen the amount of drag in the ruts, and eliminates the risk of the plate mashing into the rear shock linkage and squatting the rear end.
Last year at the Wisp I broke a rear shock linkage in half, but shortly after that Elka came out with an updated stronger linkage and I have not had a problem since then. My practice track is in the slate quarries of PA, and I put my quads through rocky terrian week in and week out.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The bellypan I use is a PRM .125 thickness pan. I think the .190 thickness pan is too much for me. After a while the center of the .125 pan bends in a little, but it takes a whole season.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here are the skidplate and bellypan installed. I make sure all the hardware is loctited, and try to use high-grade bolts wherever possible. If the bellypan makes a vibrating noise after its installed, I loosen it back up and insert some adhesive-backed foam padding between the frame and pan.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I've got the quad pretty much together mechanically. After all the dirty work is finished and no more grinding, drilling, etc is necessary, it's time to install the plastic.

[Andy Lagzdins]

I use the stock plastic because it is good quality, fits perfect, and is very inexpensive. My front hood is a Quadtech carbon fiber with the vent. I use loctite on all the bracket mount bolts and plastic mount bolts, with the exception of the ones threading directly into the tank.

[Andy Lagzdins]

The Elka front piggyback shocks require you to clearance the fenders so the compression adjusters don't rub on them. Here I have marked the cut line on the fenders and I'm preparing to make the cut with a pneumatic saw.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here's the finished cut. I've forgotten to cut the fenders on race quads in the past, and at the 12 hour race in Iowa we were hacking on the fenders with dikes on the start line!

[Andy Lagzdins]

This is probably the most important step of the build-up. The graphics, seat cover and stickers. This is where you think about who has helped you and who hasn't, and give each company their due share of space on your quad.
Preprinted number plate backgrounds are very easy to install and the price is suprisingly cheap. They also make your quad look real clean.

[Andy Lagzdins]

When putting on seat covers, I leave the stock seat cover on underneath the new one. When the top cover wears through (usually on the seam), I can catch it before it eats up the foam and just put a new top cover on.
I use a heat gun when it's cold to help make the vinyl more flexible. The electric staplegun works good with stainless steel staples to resist rusting.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Here's the final product! I wipe the plastic down with brake cleaner spray on a shop towel before applying the graphics and stickers.

[Andy Lagzdins]

My graphics are Duncan Racing, and they get the most exposure because they have helped me so much. I make sure they are well represented.
Roll Design, ITP tires and wheels, Elka suspension, IMS, TireBalls, and Motorcycle Factory all get there share of space for their contributions to my program.
I get my clothing sponsors Fox and Smith exposure on my gear and helmet.

[Andy Lagzdins]

Of course I can't forget my shop DirtFirst. My employees take care of the place real well while I'm at the races, and give me peace of mind while I'm on the road. If it wasn't for my loyal customers that patronize my store I wouldn't be able to race as seriously or as often as I do now- Thanks everyone!

[89'350RX]

BOING!

Very nice!!

[450r#221]

Thanks for taking the time to post such detailed information. Good luck with that nice machine.:macho

[Dave400ex]

Awesome build up Andy. I really like the setup of your 450r. What would be the total cost for all of that?

[SilverFox]

Thanks for sharing your build-up with us.Good luck this weekend! I can,t wait to see that machine in person at the Georgia GNCC

[chad502ex]

very sweet Andy. take care of her and thanks for taking your time with this thread. great information here.

chad502ex

[shaff107]

Hey andy just wondering on the rear skid y not just leave the 3 mounting hole on the chain side to.

[Sportrax10]

Thanks for the detailed build up, :macho ...

Awesome 450r... :cool:

[skippy1999]

Thx for the info Andy!! and Whenever I finish these 250's I would love to join the ranks of yr awesome 450's!! RIDE RED@@@! David

See you soon!

[Kilabanshee]

Awesome 450r Andy! Also good luck this season!

[black450r]

thaks forthe tips. how long does that swingarm plate last

[bone705]

so how did everything hold up on texas for you andy?

[markk]

GOod question! BOne!

[md1985250r]

It must have held up good...he took 7 th.. Congatulations Andy!!!

[Dan123]

how much does your quad weigh.

[PowerMadd789XC]

congradulations on the good finish andy , keep the great racing up .:D

[Dave400ex]

Give us some updates on how everything is working and holding up so far...

Damn thts sick

[dunes_rider]

It's really really NICE:D

[Prospector]

very nice, also a lot of $$$. have you thought of goin the dual link set up? i know its more for mx but it gives you more travel which is usefull. also would u know anyone that makes a case saver the same shape as the standard one but thicker???

[450Redrider5]

Awesome quad Andy it should be great cause its a Honda

[Prey]

nice ride andy, it was a real pleasure to get to see it this past sunday in action

[5thgearpinned]

I joined this forum because of this thread! Your an asset to this community, Thank you

Amazing.. Its great how u have ur own way of doing every little thing

[Andy Lagzdins]

Thanks for all the props. We have one more GNCC left to go in 2 weeks, and then I'm going to go over how everything worked on my quad during the season and upgrades I made to it. Look for it at the beginning of November.

[Pepto_Bismol]

Excellent Info, nice pics!

But one thing I just can't seem to find much info on anywhere is the front brake lines.

I tried to see from your pics, but there's just not a good shot. What type are you using (two line as opposed to three lines), and who's the manufacturer?

I almost assume the three line, since you mentioned that you had a crack in the frame at the brake mounting location, but the two line may mount there too (I don't know).

Last, can you write a small blurb on the routing (looks like in between the tie rod and upper A-Arm, but not sure).

The main reason I ask is I purchased the TRX450R 3 line kit from Galfer, and after mounting to the frame, there seems to be a lot of excess from the calipers to the 3-way union. Any info would be greatly appreciated, since there is almost no info about this on this forum (and others).

Pepto:cool:

[catch22blaster]

that thing is sick looks very good

[NaiLBoMB64]

your bike rocks




:eek:

[prepracing]

Originally posted by Andy Lagzdins
Thanks for all the props. We have one more GNCC left to go in 2 weeks, and then I'm going to go over how everything worked on my quad during the season and upgrades I made to it. Look for it at the beginning of November.


lets hear those upgrades....and are you setting up an 06' 450r for this season of GNCC ?

[alaskin 450R]

job well done, good luck in the races, looks like you wont be needing luck your gonna be winning them with that tight machine. have fun

[bobbys9350]

the old piston and wall look great! what kinda break in do u use?

[440racer66]

Originally posted by TWISTED
That's not a mullet. He has the real deal. Long all the way around.

yeah true hard core racers have long hair