still working on pivot bolt

[insaneracin2003]

ok guys,im at a loss here,i dont have a plasma cutter,i tried a saws-all to no avail without getting my frame,i pb blastered and beat the darn thing with a 10 pound sledge,i used a 1/2 inch air gun to spin the bolt while i beat the chit out of it.all with no avail.....here is what i have planned.since the bolt is hollow all the way through,i will get a drill bit a lil smaller than the od of the bole and drill the chit out of it.has anyone tried this???
i am really needing to get this dagum thing apart so i can send it to pappy for some bling.

[cdalejef]

The only way that will work is if you can find a bit long enough to go at least to the engine case and if you can keep the bit perfectly straight.

[insaneracin2003]

Originally posted by Jeff@QuadShop
The only way that will work is if you can find a bit long enough to go at least to the engine case and if you can keep the bit perfectly straight.
thanks jeff,im going home tonight to at least give that a try.

[98red]

I had the same problem... I spent 3 days working at it with a 3 lbs hammer. the end of the bolt looked like a mushroom when I got done with it..I sprayed it with pb for 3 days, on the last day I put some heat to it..on the spacers then it broke loose.

[oste]

I used a dremmel and a grinding bit to grind flats on the bolt. Then with a vice grip secured on the flats, I hammered away on the bolt with a 1/2" air impact wrench and torqued on the VG. Forward and reverse with both in unison. I also used an acetylene torch to heat the bolt (not cut it, just heat it and quench it with water; the heat will expand the metal, hopefully the bolt will expand first, and break the adhesion of the rust). Also sprayed with JB penetrating oil, and hammered the end a bit with a sledge hammer. It still took 4 hours of this to get it loose!! The impact wrench/vice grip heat worked the best. I did not cut the bolt though.


[QUOTE]Originally posted by insaneracin2003
[B]ok guys,im at a loss here,i dont have a plasma cutter,i tried a saws-all to no avail without getting my frame...

[honda67ex]

i had the same problem..i ended up cuttin the pivot bolt with a torch.. its kinda hard to do but i managed. cut on both side of the motor then against the frame on both sides.... then pull the swingarm off and then weld a bolt to the piece thats left inside the motor.. then use a slide hammer.. this took me like 3 days to do .. i really wouldnt recommend it but do what u gotta do.

[EX4me]

Beat & banged on mine for 3 days including drilling & everything you could think of. Ended up at Competition 2 Stroke getting the sleeves grinded out.:(

[olimj]

I read all the horror stories and was fearing the worst after I bought this bike used and already fought with unfreezing the brake pedal which was frozen solid. Sure enough, it was stuck like a bugger, but I just got it out tonight. Here's how: hosed all openings down with Gumout, put the nut on a few threads, layed a 6" 2x4 endways on the footpeg against the nut, and gave it a few good whacks with a **** and a 2' backswing (don't miss!). Finally got it to move an 1/8" and knew I was home free. From there I rinsed all joints with Gumout, turned the nut to pull it back,more Gumout, whacked it again and kept going back and forth until I had it moving a full inch per whack. Came right out after that and the bolt even looks good.

[SixthFloorFreak]

Originally posted by olimj
I read all the horror stories and was fearing the worst after I bought this bike used and already fought with unfreezing the brake pedal which was frozen solid. Sure enough, it was stuck like a bugger, but I just got it out tonight. Here's how: hosed all openings down with Gumout, put the nut on a few threads, layed a 6" 2x4 endways on the footpeg against the nut, and gave it a few good whacks with a **** and a 2' backswing (don't miss!). Finally got it to move an 1/8" and knew I was home free. From there I rinsed all joints with Gumout, turned the nut to pull it back,more Gumout, whacked it again and kept going back and forth until I had it moving a full inch per whack. Came right out after that and the bolt even looks good.

only problem with shear brute force is that sometimes the rust doesn't give first, the mounting plate on the frame does:eek2:

[Rico]

Originally posted by SixthFloorFreak
only problem with shear brute force is that sometimes the rust doesn't give first, the mounting plate on the frame does:eek2:

LMFAO

Yeah brute force might not always be the answer to removing the bolt. I"ve stated before that I thougth mine was coming out after 5 days of soaking the bolt and everything around it with PB Blaster, I seen that it was moving. Well my frame was actually spreading apart. Something WILL give when you beat it hard and long enough and it won't always be the bolt that gives way.:eek2:

[olimj]

Yeah, maybe I lucked out, but all I know is I was damn glad to get up this morning and see that motor sitting out of the frame on the floor. :)

My next plan of attack was going to be to weld a tab onto the exposed area of the sleeve in the middle that would stop it against the swingarm so I could turn the bolt to break it loose. That, or the suggestion I saw elsewhere to weld a threaded rod onto the bolt head, slip a collar over it that butts against the frame, then a washer and a nut, crank the nut against the collar to pull it out.

[crazyelece]

Anybody ever try rigging up a pulley puller or flywhell puller. They usually got alota pushing power on a point. I was lucky I tore mine down last week and it came right out without much of a problem. My PITA was the lower engine mount bolt. I had to drill the head of the bolt off and wiggle the other end out.