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View Full Version : Repacking White Bros. e-series exhaust



fwhite02
01-01-2005, 03:10 PM
I removed the bolts from the rear of the can and pulled out the core and packing.

Before wrapping the new packing, I tried to reinsert the core and can't get it all the way in. The back side is fitting into the can and then it jams. I am afraid the core is not aligning with the header side. Should I drill out the rivets on that side and make sure it's aligned.

I am trying to avoid beating it to death with the rubber mallet.

Any help is appreciated. Race next week. Thanks.

2002 400ex
White Brothers E-series full exhaust
Renthal Bars
AC ProPeg nerfs
Maxxis tires
Denton stabilizer
Stock shocks (ouch)

JOEX
01-02-2005, 09:35 PM
Yes, drill out the rivits on the front, wrap the core and slide it in the canister then line up the header piece.

fwhite02
01-03-2005, 10:55 AM
Thanks, I drilled out the rivets and could see that the core wasn't seating properly. I cleaned up both ends using a dremel and lubed them up.

Worked great.

Doesn't seem like the greatest engineering though. Why use bolts in the back and rivets in the front? With the increased pressure I'm seeing to lower noise levels, W/B should make it easier to change packing. Maybe they have with e-series II.

schootar
01-03-2005, 05:30 PM
At least yours had bolts in the back. Mine has rivets all around. Sure was a pain to replace the packing. I had to fabricate a plate so I could pull the core without banging up the pipe too much.

RideRed250ex
01-21-2005, 02:08 PM
When you put the end back on did you replace it with rivets or did you use bolts?

I have one to and could probably used to be repacked, is there a difference in 4 stroke backing and 2 stroke packing?


Edit-Packing

RideRed250ex
01-23-2005, 07:33 PM
Anyone?

fwhite02
01-24-2005, 03:54 AM
I re-used the bolts for the rear of the can and rivets for the front.

Packing is packing, same for either.

47501exracer
02-27-2005, 11:56 AM
Originally posted by schootar
At least yours had bolts in the back. Mine has rivets all around. Sure was a pain to replace the packing. I had to fabricate a plate so I could pull the core without banging up the pipe too much.


I am repacking mine now and the user guide says only to drill out the rivets by the disks. Do you have to drill out the front rivents also? Mine won't come out with just the rear rivets gone. Thanks!

fwhite02
02-27-2005, 01:28 PM
My can had bolts in the back and rivets up front. I was able to remove the existing packing just removing the back. My problem was getting it lined up to re-install. I drilled out the rivets and it was a piece of cake.

I recommend that you drill the front ones out as well. It will make everything easier.

mynewtoy
05-09-2005, 06:22 PM
I do not have mine infront of me so I want to get this straight before I do it.
I unbolt the back pull out the core drill the rivets on the core then wrap and reinsert then bolt the back again.
I just want to make sure I have everthing before I do it because I am going to do it before a big weekend of riding. I do not want to take it apart and then not be able to get it back to gether to ride with people who are coming from 6 hours away.

reconmaster
05-20-2005, 04:46 AM
i'm waiting for my white brothers exhaust and j/w do the quiet cores actuly keep noise levels 5-6db less then a wite bros pipe with out it?

06-05-2005, 08:22 AM
I had a quiet core in my new Predator and it made a biiiiig difference in sound. Unfortunately, it made a very small difference in performance too. :rolleyes:

bwamos
06-24-2005, 02:28 PM
I prefer rivets everywhere lol.
After time with the high temps.. the damn 1/8" bolts/screws always sieze up (even with anti sieze compound). I jsut drill out the pop rivets.. and replace them.

TravEX
06-24-2005, 04:05 PM
i need to re-pack mine too,,,where is everyone getting the repacking kit?

R-Crazy
07-11-2005, 11:13 PM
any bike shop should have it. Otherwise, any site that sells silencers should have some sort of packing, or maybe ebay!

dave