to all the car audio junkies

[250exrder]

ok so heres the scoop, the other day i bought 2 10" power acoustik subs and i wanna know wut kind of amp i should get.

each sub has a dual 4ohm voice coil(whatever that means i just read it off the box) and can handle 250 watts rms, 500 max.

im pretty sure i need a multichannel amp right? well i want one close to the rms of the subs so i picked these out:

Boss Ripper 696 , Soundstorm D500.4, Legacy Audio LA895, Lanzar HTG424, DHD NTX-2009, Crossfire VR404

the reason why these arent any big name brands os cuz i dont have alot of money to spend on one:ermm:

so the final question is...... which amp do u think is best for my application??? thanks alot for anybody who answers

[250exrder]

heres some info on 2 of them

http://www.discountjungle.net/sounf2254cha.html

http://www.cardomain.com/item/BOSRIP696

[represent618]

i got an old school Pheonix Gold M44, back when the amps were bad ***, it can push up to 1000 bridged, i pushed two 15" rockfords with it and it beat really hard, i will sell the amp and the speakers, they are collecting dust in my attic, equipment is all in new order, sealed box is fitted for the subs (air-space).

else wise i would reccomend a rockford amp.

[Guy400]

I've been out of car audio for so long it's not funny but is Precision Power still in business? Back in the early 90's I had a 1000w PPI amp and that was the chit. I remember it was white, triangular shaped on the one side and circular on the other (if looking at the end of the amp) and was about 2-1/2' long. That was driving 2 Lanzar 15's and then I had a Lanzar Optidrive amp driving Polk 5-1/4's. Let me tell you, the Citation was bumpin'....lmfao:devil:

[EXRIDER400KFX]

Originally posted by Guy400
I've been out of car audio for so long it's not funny but is Precision Power still in business? Back in the early 90's I had a 1000w PPI amp and that was the chit. I remember it was white, triangular shaped on the one side and circular on the other (if looking at the end of the amp) and was about 2-1/2' long. That was driving 2 Lanzar 15's and then I had a Lanzar Optidrive amp driving Polk 5-1/4's. Let me tell you, the Citation was bumpin'....lmfao:devil:

damn two 15's!:eek2: :eek2:

o and buy the way idk a lot about systems but i can tell you probably need around an 800 wt amp.

[Scott-300ex]

one that works:huh

[your2slo2]

go with the lanzar :macho i know there name isnt popular but there amps have fat sacks that is all i have ever had and they make awesome subs as long as you get the pro series , if you can find one of the opti-drive lanzar amps you wont be disappointed :o

[represent618]

i got two 15' rockford fosgate subs that i will sell at a good price if anyone is interested? $130.00 for the pair, i paid I think about $200 a piece new and they got used about a month maybe 8 weeks at the most, they were taking up too much space in my truck so i took them out, they look and perform like new, have been stored inside my house, not out in the cold.

[EXRIDER400KFX]

Originally posted by represent618
i got two 15' rockford fosgate subs that i will sell at a good price if anyone is interested? $130.00 for the pair, i paid I think about $200 a piece new and they got used about a month maybe 8 weeks at the most, they were taking up too much space in my truck so i took them out, they look and perform like new, have been stored inside my house, not out in the cold.

you've got a PM

[250exrder]

damn that sounds like a awesome deal too bad i already bought some, darn

anybody else with suggestions??

[gojk]

I wouldn't get a multichannel amp, there is no need. I would get a class D amp that is 1 ohm stable. Bridge those subs to 2 ohm, and it will rock. Denending on box design and crossovers I would think something in the 300-400watts range would do just fine. Just remember, Jensens 1000watts is like 150 Rockford Fosgate watts.

[gojk]

Also, how much are you looking to spend and I can give reccomendations.

[throwinitup]

hey man you dont need a 4 channel amp, 2 channel will be fine, wire the subs series-parallell and youll be sweet. you wire them together so the overall load is like 4 ohms...i had 2 kicker comp vr 12s DVC's to a kicker kx800.2 effing SLAMMED

yeah ppi is is business still they make a mean amp, but crappy subs.....

imo, go for a power acoustik amp matched systems are always good...if not go for somethin like a kicker 600.2 or somethin... just my 2 cents :devil:


let us know what you want to get when u get somethin in mind, cuz alot of the time you find somethin like on ebay like a "lanzar 2000w amp" and it only puts out like 300w rms lol so we can tell you whats good and whats junk

[250exrder]

im lookin to spend around 150 MAX... i thought i would need a 4 channel amp because theres 2 subs and 2 channels per sub

[crux131]

www.ikesound.com may be your new friend.

I would either get a powerful 2 channel amp, run the subs at 2 ohm each(assuming the voicecoils are 4 ohm), or get a quality class d mono amp, and run all the voice coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load I beleive. Make sure the amps are rated for these loads, or else you will burn them up!!!

Of the companies named in the first post, Crossfire or Lanzar are the most reputable names, so probably be safer with one of their products....oh yeah, I think Pyramid owns Lanzar, but Inthink their products don't blow yet.

Also, keep in mind your wiring needs. For a quality amp install, you probably need at least four guage power and ground cables( mabe larger...dependent on current draw of the amp). Good quality signal(rca) cables won't hurt either.

Make sure the box is of matching specs for the subs....I have seen many people with crap ***** boxes and bad amplifier tuning, blame good quality products for bad sound or failure. Quality is quality. It applies for the whole system.

Good Luck, and have fun.

[250exrder]

i bought a wiring kit when i got the subs they handle up to 800 watts and its 8 gauge i think

for the box i think i was going along the lines of q logic

[throwinitup]

man just look for a used MTX or somethin on EBAY

DONT BUY THAT LANZAR PYRAMID CRAP please dont your wasting your money...these guys dont know what theyre talking about
those "amps" are just straight out junk


trust me, i know whats up when it comes to stereos im on team horizon audio SPL horizon audio is ohio's premeire car audio shop... http://www.horizonaudio.com

any of the mtx thunder amps are good...i picked up a mtx 275x thunder for $25 and its rated at like 200w but the thing pushes my solo baric...i decided to take out my kicker amp for...really...idk why i took it out..lol i just wanted somethin else in there i guess and i threw that in for the hell of it...

[2002400ex]

Memphis Audio is good.

[throwinitup]

memphis is real decent....quality shizza there

[gojk]

Originally posted by throwinitup
man just look for a used MTX or somethin on EBAY

DONT BUY THAT LANZAR PYRAMID CRAP please dont your wasting your money...these guys dont know what theyre talking about
those "amps" are just straight out junk


trust me, i know whats up when it comes to stereos im on team horizon audio SPL horizon audio is ohio's premeire car audio shop... http://www.horizonaudio.com

any of the mtx thunder amps are good...i picked up a mtx 275x thunder for $25 and its rated at like 200w but the thing pushes my solo baric...i decided to take out my kicker amp for...really...idk why i took it out..lol i just wanted somethin else in there i guess and i threw that in for the hell of it...

I agree, Lanzar is garbage. If you think they are good, you prob haven't used much else.

$150 is low for an amp to push 2 subs, but it will work. Just don't expect the bottom freqs to hit so good. Also I would recommend building your own box. A sealed box is easily made and it is alot cheaper than buying one.

[EXRIDER400KFX]

Originally posted by throwinitup
memphis is real decent....quality shizza there

i'll have 2 memphis 15's with a 1200 wtt memphis amp. :devil:

[crux131]

I never said that Lanzar was good, but I know some of the products would do what he wanted. You son't have to spend a fortune on audio equipment, just make sure it is capable of doing what you want.

I also warned him that Pyramid was the owner, and that he should keep that in mind.

As far as using other brands, I currently have mtx amps, cerwin vega sub, memphis audio components, and audio control equalization in my truck....with the source coming from a clarion pro audio head unit.

I have Kicker amps and sub in my crx, with pheonix gold coaxes,and a panasonic head unit.

I have cerwin vega subs and components, as well as some mb quart components in my GMC jimmy.....powered off of a hifonics 5 channel amp, with an Eclipse mp3 capable head unit.

None of these are competition systems by any means.....just something nice I have thrown together.

I would easily suggest MTX, Kicker, Memphis, hifonics, jbl, older Soundstream reference series, older sony ....etc. I have used most of these products, or have had experience with them and all are nice quality.

Any way, shop around.... I only suggested Ikesound because I have had good experiences through them.

[your2slo2]

i agree the new lanzar stuff is junk thats why i wrote in my first post to get one of the opti-drive series because that was before they sold out to some junk company

[250exrder]

i dont think that if i made a box it would come out as good as the premade ones...i think the 50 or 60 bucks is worth it for a good box.....

oh yea one more question, can i run two subs off of a mono channel amp? someone i know told me that today and i was confused

[250exrder]

what do u think about boss amps?

[crux131]

Boss ranks right in there with Lanzar and Pyle and Pyramid.

You can run both subs off of a mono amp, if wired correctly.
You need to let us know the impedance of each voice coil to determine the correct wiring. You did say they were dual voice coil didn't you? This is a concern because if the impedence drops too low, the load may be too great for the amplifier...ex. a 2 ohm load on a 4 ohm rated mono amplifier. The amplifier specs should tell you it's minimal resistance.

The impedance is a measure of resistance. You can wire multiple speakers together in parallel or series....or for real confusion, a combination.

For more info on this, check the tutorials section of www.jlaudio.com . There are some very helpful articles on there about box design, wiring, and a lot of aother usefull car audio subjects.

[ZBlaster]

im currently running an Earthquake D2 shredder (2500x1 at 1 ohm at 14.4v) to 2 Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12's in 4 cu. ft. ported tuned to 32hz... i love my D2... great fairly cheap amp, provides plenty of power (i know the situation i listd earlier is rarely possible but it still puts out a good 1800 watts)... i got mine off my cousin for $150 im not sure how much they are new but i think around $350 or so... i know u said u only wanted to spend $150 but in car audio u get what u pay for... u go cheap ull sound cheap... i have more in my system then i initially planned on spending, but it sounds better then i initially planned on it sounding... if u stay with good brands (candence A7's are very nice, alpine, kicker, earthquake, diamond audio, arc audio, directed (DEI), viper (also DEI), and Rockford Fosgate) u will not be disapointed... my main advice is to STAY AWAY from anything cheap... and some expensive stuff as well *cough*Audiobahn*cough*, power acoustik subs are pretty nice... which set did u get the FUBR or MOFO's? another thing u want to do is build ur own box... look up the specs and build the box urself (3/4" MDF works EXCELLENT), buying a prefab box that is not made for ur speakers will not let them perform to there full potential... if u have any question u can hit me up on aim at TaylorRacinEX007....

[bigfoot300ex]

Originally posted by ZBlaster
im currently running an Earthquake D2 shredder (2500x1 at 1 ohm at 14.4v) to 2 Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12's in 4 cu. ft. ported tuned to 32hz... i love my D2... great fairly cheap amp, provides plenty of power (i know the situation i listd earlier is rarely possible but it still puts out a good 1800 watts)... i got mine off my cousin for $150 im not sure how much they are new but i think around $350 or so... i know u said u only wanted to spend $150 but in car audio u get what u pay for... u go cheap ull sound cheap... i have more in my system then i initially planned on spending, but it sounds better then i initially planned on it sounding... if u stay with good brands (candence A7's are very nice, alpine, kicker, earthquake, diamond audio, arc audio, directed (DEI), viper (also DEI), and Rockford Fosgate) u will not be disapointed... my main advice is to STAY AWAY from anything cheap... and some expensive stuff as well *cough*Audiobahn*cough*, power acoustik subs are pretty nice... which set did u get the FUBR or MOFO's? another thing u want to do is build ur own box... look up the specs and build the box urself (3/4" MDF works EXCELLENT), buying a prefab box that is not made for ur speakers will not let them perform to there full potential... if u have any question u can hit me up on aim at TaylorRacinEX007....
what is wrong with audiobahn?
all of my friends have their products and have never had any trouble with them

[quadrcr161]

audiobahn isnt that bad, its real flashy and can get real loud, but its not the cleanest sounding stuff.

[throwinitup]

i built my box out of 3/4" MDF in my high school woodshop class...we nicknamed it the kid coffin..lol it was 36" wide, 22" deep and 18" tall...just for 2 12's it was an awesome box...

[250exrder]

actually ZBLASTER its neither FUBR or MOFO'S....its called BL-10

and i have no idea what the impedance of the sub is cuz it doesnt say anywhere

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by 250exrder
actually ZBLASTER its neither FUBR or MOFO'S....its called BL-10

and i have no idea what the impedance of the sub is cuz it doesnt say anywhere

hhmmm i havent seen them yet...

[crux131]

I love how people are still hanging on Fosgate. I don't really like their products, the base line up is really kind of sucky, the mid level is better, but for the same money, you can get better( Just won't say Rockford fosgate or Punch ), and their top end stuff is just really pricey( but finally a little worth it ).

The only Fosgate stuff I would like to have are the old school Punch 45's, 75's, 150's...up to the 40's, 60's, and 100's. Power 650's and 1000's were pretty nice too.

The later power stuff was capable as far as power, but reliability went out the window. My buddy sent his amp back numerouse times, and was doing good to keep one channel working( this was at a 2 ohm load....stereo....damned things became over priced toaster ovens usually.

Maybe it's just me, but I'll stay away from them.

Product lines I have had good experiences with, or know are reliable:

Kicker, almost everything I have owned has held up nicely.

MTX, love their Thunder series stuff.

Sony, heard mixed reviews of their newer stuff, but used an old xm-3040 in about 14 different systems and probably every one of it's bridging options.

So far my Hifonics amp has held up very well, and greatly simplified wiring of the system with its built in crossovers.

Soundstream reference series, massive power...well for its size(200 watts at 1 ohm, not bad for a 25 x 2 amp from years ago).

Audio Control, best signal processing at an affordable price....there is cheaper, but this stuff was worth the difference.

Eclipse...I love the head units, remind of older Alpine before they started shoving features into them. I mean Alpine is good stuff, but I hate jogging through a menu for 5 minutes, to change one simple adjustment.

Clarion pro audio, see above about alpine, but once it was set, I quit fooling with it. Plus the aux inputs work nicely with my ps-2, and it matches my Clarion monitor.

Cerwin Vega, love the vega series of subs( work great in my truck), and the Stealth series are good entry level items( and they sound damn nice in the correct box with the right amunt of power).

Memphis Audio, sub I used to have sounded nice, the highs I have had were very clear as well. I have dealt with some of the amplifiers, and they were nice peices as well.

Mb Quart, very clear highs, but sometimes a little harsh, at least the more entry level ones like those I have.

Poweer Acoustic, not the best out there, but the amp got the job done for me at the time....but no way in hell did it produce 400 watts to that single 10" hahaha


these are all brands I have dealt with recently, or for long enough to give an idea of their durability. I will leave out any that are no longer in business, or that I didn't keep long enough to make an impression of.

This post wast really to bash Fosgate, but I always have to clear that one rant :p . Maybe the other info could be usefull in searching for an amplifier.

[ZBlaster]

i was referring to high end fosgate... i am aware its very expensive but have u heard the new power subs... there amazing... i had 3 of there Power HX2's (last years models) for a while and loved them... ill have to disagree with u on Sony... there new **** sucks balls... all of the kids around here use them... they sound like ***... there head units arent bad tho... and for every1 saying why did i say audiobahn sucked? well up until a month ago i was running 1 Flame Compression 12" off one of there old 1200 watt amps... for the money it cost it wasnt worth ****... $400 sub and $500 amp... i would have expected much better for the cash... they hit pretty hard but the SQ was horrible... they just did not impress me and there is so much better for the money...

[250exrder]

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/857

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/567

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1854

http://www.discountjungle.net/sofof7.html

those are some prospects....please remember, i dont have money lol

[crux131]

I'm with you on Audiobahn, looks cool, sound suffers( you are paying for the styling, not greater quality ).

The Sony I was reffering too was the older, as in way older stuff. The last sony amp I had was that xm-3040, and that was between 93-98, but it lasted all that time and was used when I got it so props to those models. I also know someone sponsored by Sony, and the stuff in his car holds up through competitions regularly...well except for his component speakers.

Like I said the higher end Fosgate is the Poo, while the lower end stuff is just poo. Not getting my money though, just personal choice on that end. Guess I would rather buy more JL audio's( I have had them as well, good stuff, but pricey ), Cerwin Vega's( probably not as good, but I am a fan from way back ), or some of the higher end Memphis subs....OOOH:D . I also keep thinking I will try some Resonant Engineering stuff, suposed to have good sound quality and spl.

[crux131]

Look at this stuff, some of it may be refurbished, but that doesn't mean crap...also check with the company about warranty on these items. I can vouch for some of these brands in original condition, but I don't know with refurb. Also, not everything listed is refurb...so check the links....most are mono amps, not two channels.

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2119

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2286

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1805

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1618

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2163

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2166

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2006

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2452

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1506

[TGW_400ex]

Could anyone tell me if this amp
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1854
Would power 2 of these subs
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1631

[250exrder]

CRUX131...would any of those beable to power two 10" power acoustik subs?? ur being a great help thanks

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by crux131
Look at this stuff, some of it may be refurbished, but that doesn't mean crap...also check with the company about warranty on these items. I can vouch for some of these brands in original condition, but I don't know with refurb. Also, not everything listed is refurb...so check the links....most are mono amps, not two channels.

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2119

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2286

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1805

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1618

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2163

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2166

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2006

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2452

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1506

i must say aside for the sony amp on that list u have made a pretty good list... ur right old sony is nice but the new stuf... well lets just say it blows...

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by TGW_400ex
Could anyone tell me if this amp
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1854
Would power 2 of these subs
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1631

That amp might put out 400 watts... read this thread and ull see some better choices mentioned...

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by 250exrder
CRUX131...would any of those beable to power two 10" power acoustik subs?? ur being a great help thanks

most of them could easily... the Directed 750D would probley be ur best choice...

[TGW_400ex]

Originally posted by ZBlaster
That amp might put out 400 watts... read this thread and ull see some better choices mentioned...

I already have those subs and my last amp burn up so I want to get a amp that wont burn up and doesn't cost alot of $$$ Could you point me in the right direction?

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by TGW_400ex
I already have those subs and my last amp burn up so I want to get a amp that wont burn up and doesn't cost alot of $$$ Could you point me in the right direction?

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2119

[crux131]

The directed amps are suposed to be very good. It will definitely power any of the tens mentioned in this thread....like I said it depends on the final load, so some series/ parallel wiring might be in order.

I am just trying to help out, I don't even have a quad, just joined because a friend was here....but if I can actually help out, thenm I am all for it.

I have never done car audio professionaly, and am nothing but a rank amatuer, but have always really liked it and still do today.
Oh and I have hooked up a lot of stereos...hahaha, just ask quadrcr161...lol

[crux131]

Oh yeah, while I have had good experiences with ikesound...the reason I suggested them. My friend ordered a head unit and was delayed for stock reasons...they worked with him though, and just changed makes....his choice over waiting.

I guess I am saying to call them and check availability on any of the products up front, will save you some calls or emails later.

I emphasize they did come through, just took some time due to back orders and what not.

[crux131]

Found this regarding the original poster bl series subs..
500 watts power handling
250 Watts RMS
55 oz. magnet
1.5” kapton voice coil
SPL 91 dB
Fs: 33.5Hz
Vas: 1.18 cu.ft.
Qms: 6.7
Qes: 0.45
Qts: 0.4201
Xmax: 0.3"
Sealed box: .5 cu.Ft
Ported box; 1.1 cu. Ft.
Tuning: 40Hz
Port size: 3” (dia) x 9.5” (length)
# of ports: 1

Also, these are dual 4 ohm voice coil woofers.
this means they can be wired for a 2 ohm( parallel wiring ) load, or a 8 ohm( series wiring ).

So you can either run a 4 ohm mono system (series parallel wiring) or a 1 ohm mono system ( parallel wiring all the voice coils together.

Or you could just get a quality 2 channel amp, and run a solid 2 ohm stereo load for decent power as well.

Mono or Stereo doesn't really matter in most sub systems, becase there often is little stereo seperations due to the long wavelengths in low frequency reproduction.

Also, while these subs will probably suit your needs well in a properly designed system, I don't think I would cram maximum wattage into them either.
they are part of the more basic items by Power Acoustic and are basically physically limited against extreme output. They can and will sound nice in a properly set up system.

Might try using the poerted box , it will yield a little more spl, while not losing too much low frequency response.

The following box designs are manufacturer suggested, and are per woofer, so you would need two of these, or one larger dual chamber enclosure maybe.


Build a sealed box system around half a cubic foot of internal airspace( per their recomendation ), and if it sounds a little to tight, add some polyester fiberfill ( pillow/quilt stuffing material....available in the fabric section at wal mart ). This will make the box perform as if slightly larger.

if you decide to go ported, go 1.1 cu ft.( again, power acoustics recomendations ), and use a 3" diameter peice of pvc pipe for the port. Cut this pipe to 9.5" long.

If ported, try placing the port on the side facing a corner( if in say a standard cab pickup ), this can cause a stronger cabin gain ( reinforcement of a certain frequency caused by the space the enclosure is mounted in )...and may add to your bass.

If in a hatchback car, mount the port on the same fave as the woofer, and experiment with aiming the sub different directions and different corners.

[crux131]

I just keep posting....haha

I would probably look at amps capable of around 250-300 watts per woofer, this should be a safe every day power level for these, if distortion is kept to a minimal.

[ZBlaster]

ive had great experiences with ikesound as well... i have ordered 2 cd players and my friend ordered his whole system from there... there shipping policy is great along with their customer service...

as crux said Directed amps are EXTREMELY good amps that are very underrated... they rate their amps at 12v while most other companies rate at 14.4v... 14.4v isnt always reachable... most competition setups can reach 14.4v+ but most everyday arent setup that way...

i have installed probably 50+ setups and have been a part of probably over 100... i myself have owned 5 diffrent setups... i dont consider myself to be a professional by any means but i do consider myself very knowledgable...

im sure that if u go by what has been said in this thread u will not go wrong... u might also check out http://www.sounddomain.com's chat room and forums for extra help...

[250exrder]

i shouldve just asked this question...... because u are smarter than i am when it comes to this,

if you had 150$ to spend, and u have 2 power acoustik bl 10 subs, what amp would you get??

ill just trust ur answer because im sure you know what would produce the best sound lol

[250exrder]

ALSO correct me if im wrong but if i want a tighter sound bass i would put these into a sealed box correct?

[ZBlaster]

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1618

230x2 at 2ohm the rms is 250 so thatd be a good choice

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by 250exrder
ALSO correct me if im wrong but if i want a tighter sound bass i would put these into a sealed box correct?

yes...

[250exrder]

thanks alot man....big help, Kenwoods pretty good

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by 250exrder
thanks alot man....big help, Kenwoods pretty good

no problem man, and yea ive had nothing but good luck with kenwood

[250exrder]

wait a sec.......

POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 460 Watts x 1
- Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 230 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 150 Watts x 2

AUDIO FEATURES
- 2 or 1 Channels of Amplification
- Ground Isolation Circuit
- High-Pass Electronic Crossover: 150Hz, 12dB/oct (Switchable)
- Quiet Turn-On
- RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated
- RCA Line Outputs: Gold-Plated
- Speaker Connectors: Screw-Type
- Speaker Level Input Terminals: Plug-Type
- Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation
- Variable Low-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 18dB per Octave
- Bass Boost: Off/+12dB (90Hz)



where does it say 250 watts rms?????

[ZBlaster]

Originally posted by 250exrder
wait a sec.......

POWER RATINGS
- Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 460 Watts x 1
- Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts
- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 230 Watts x 2
- Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 150 Watts x 2

AUDIO FEATURES
- 2 or 1 Channels of Amplification
- Ground Isolation Circuit
- High-Pass Electronic Crossover: 150Hz, 12dB/oct (Switchable)
- Quiet Turn-On
- RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated
- RCA Line Outputs: Gold-Plated
- Speaker Connectors: Screw-Type
- Speaker Level Input Terminals: Plug-Type
- Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation
- Variable Low-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 18dB per Octave
- Bass Boost: Off/+12dB (90Hz)



where does it say 250 watts rms?????

the subs are 250 rms each

- Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 230 Watts x 2

that would put 230 to each speaker at 14.4V

[250exrder]

well....i guess ill buy the kenwood cuz 230rms to each speaker and they can handle 250rms...thats pretty close so it should be an alright system, thanks for alll the help!!

[250exrder]

back again lol...this time i have a question about how to hook up the subs to the box wires

this is the box i got

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Q-Logic-Dual-Subwoofer-Enclosure--QLH--10D75-/sem/rpsm/oid/69719/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

so how do i hook up the dual 4oh channels to each terminal when theres only 1 set of positive and negative going out of the box??

wheres crux???

[phatswinn]

if you want it to sound great ull get 2 300w single channel amps for them

also make a box or have one made designed presisly to your speakers specifications (cu.ft), the box makes ALL the difference, if you do that it'll sound badarse

[250exrder]

yea i already got an amp and box..thanks tho

[gojk]

What amp? To wire them, you need to know the impedence of the speakers (ohms), and you need to know what the amp it stable too. Now you said you have dual 4 ohm VCs so to put a final load on the amp of 4ohm, run a small jumper wire from one positive to the opposite negative on the same speaker. Then run the positive in the terminal cup to the open positive on the speaker and the same for the negative. Now run both postives and both negatives together from opposite speakers to the amp.

Horrible picture, but it gives the idea..



http://www.eaznet.com/~buttercup/ampwiring.JPG

[crux131]

If the amp is 2 channel, just run it 2 ohm stereo. run a jumper wire from one positive on the sub to the other possitive. do the same for the negative. wire both of these to the appropriate terminal on the box, to one of the terminals on the sub, and there you have a two ohm load.

sort of like:


box terminal cup pos.---------sub pos.-------sub pos.
box terminal cup neg.---------sub neg.------sub neg.

Thats it. do the same for each sub, and just wire the box to the amp apropriately.

Use the above diagram if running the amp mono......really won't get more power in this situation, and will have to deal with more complicated wiring.

Oh yeah, I think there is a tutorial on JLAudio.com about setting the gains on the amp. this will be helpfull in getting a good sound.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

[250exrder]

the amp is a soundstorm force and its 2ohm stable and its a 2 channel amp. should i wire it for a 2 ohm load or 4 ohm load..which is better?

[250exrder]

i just ended up wiring it for a 2 ohm load so n/m the last question,

ive seen like pillow stuffing or something inthe boxes does that make the sound deeper? i think im gunna do that

thanks for the help

[gojk]

Stuffing the box with batting will just smooth out the sound. If you want punchy bass don't do it, if you want smooth bass do it. I personally do it, because I would rather it sound good than be loud.

[crux131]

2 ohm stereo on most amps, is equal or close to the same power output as 4 ohm bridged output. So that should be fine.

The stuffing is commonly called batting or fiberfill. it is used to make an enclosure act like a larger enclosure......somewhere around ten percent larger. this will help smooth out response in some systems, but not always necassary. If you decide to do it, use about a pound of fiberfill per cubic foot of enclosure.

Oh yeah, you can get fiberfill in the Wal Mart sewing department...pretty cheap. It is the same as pillow/ quilt stuffing.