Nitrous was kinda lame.

[nakomis0]

Well I put nitrous on my 440 for Silver Lake this weekend and it was kinda lame.

I started with a 10-12hp shot which should of gotten about 8hp to the ground. And it really didn't pull much harder.

Then I bumped it 2 more jet sizes so I now had a 20nos, and a 26 fuel. Don't know what hp that would put out but Im guessing 20hp.. and maybe 15 to the ground.

With that I could feel a larger pull but it still wasn't very substantal(sp). Its hard to explain how it pulled but I'll try...

When drag racing and your running at the same speed as the guy next to you, if I hit the button it would only pull me about 2 feet farth up on the guy... if that makes sense. i was hoping to jump something like a quad lenght or 2.

So I wasn't really that impressed. I was running the nitrous shots slightly rich, but I'm trying not to blow my quad up. I did however hit that button like crazy.. pressed it and keeped it pressed for the 300' except when shifting.

I got my kit for kinda cheap but they usually are around $500 bucks (i think). I would rather put that money towards a stroker crank or something else.

So with that said.. anyone wanna buy this kit. $300 shipped. Comes with everything you need, except a fuel pump. ( i accidently put a hole in mine.) and it comes with a 2lbs bottle and a Boondockers 20oz bottle thats bad as h@ll if fits right under a 400ex gas tank... you can't even see it. Its only been used once that sells for $100 .. but comes with this kit.

I do wanna say I have seen this kit on a z400. He was using 40jets (i was only using a 20) and it did kick butt, but I'm way to scared of putting that much stress on my motor. But he would pull very hard when hitting the button on that,

[speedy400]

I see from your sig you have stocker clutch, with a full built 440 kit and nos, I bet you your not getting the power to the ground. Soon as you hit that nos button I bet the stocker clutch just says "forget it"-darren

[nakomis0]

You know... you could be right about that.

I did start to have clutch problems at the end of this weekend. Alot of slipping and then slamming into gear.

I didnt really think of that. ... I'm not going to be pressed on selling this thing... so maybe I'll order a better clutch and give it another try.

Its hard for me to go with the clutch slipping thing because I have never noticed slight loss of power due to a clutch. Any clutch slippage I ever had it was just a total slippage then slammed into gear. Just hard for me to comprehend... but if heard alot of people bring it up.

[mikeboone]

If you dont trail ride far switch to the FCR 41mm and have it converted for methanol. I had the 41 on my Drag 440 and it beat the chit outta the old 39mm. (both on race gas) You wont believe how much those 2mm make:D

[wilkin250r]

Nitrous is very adjustable. My first experience with nitrous was my little 250X. When I did it the first time, the engine actually bogged down, it was way too rich. I couldn't go smaller on the fuel, so I went bigger on the nitrous. It got a little better, but nothing subsantial. Like you, I was kind of dissapointed.

Later, I changed the location of the nitrous injection. It was sitting before the carb, I changed it to after, directly into the intake port on the head. I also increased the jetting size at the same time.

WOW, what a difference! This was a little 250x, not generally known as high-horsepower quads, and here I was trying desperatly to keep the front end down in third gear! (It never occured to me to let off the button) This little quad was transformed into a fire-breathing monster! The gains were huge! I had perma-grin from ear to ear after that ride.

Nitrous also hits much harder at lower RPM. A 5hp shot at 6000rpm is a 10hp shot at 3000rpm. So it you're only hitting the button at max rpm, you're not going to see a huge gain.

So, all in all, I'd play around with it a little more before you give up on it completely. Try tweaking the setup, don't be afraid to lean it out a little bit, you may be running way too rich. Get it on a dyno to tune it up and get it running just right. I just can't imagine anybody being dissapointed in nitrous if it is set up properly.

[nakomis0]

Thanks for the encouragement Wilkin.

It was kinda slapped together for labor day weekend due to the wrong parts coming it..some hoses where short.. so soliniods where bouncing in the airbox and what not....

New parts have been ordered, and I;m going to clean up the install. I think I will get with the dyno guy and see if we can dial it in some more.

Plus I want to know exactly how big the shot is. I don't think I want to go anymore that 20hp to the ground.

Mine is installed after the carb.. btw.

[wilkin250r]

Ok, just to clarify a few things.

You said something about a Boondockers bottle. Is it a Boondockers kit? I thought the Boondockers kit was installed at the filter. By "after the carb" I meant along the intake track. Air goes through the filter first, then the boot, then the carb, then into the head. Mine was installed between the carb and head, so it was after the carb along the intake track. The filter is before the carb.

My kit is not boondockers. I was playing with nitrous long before the boondockers kit came out for ATVs. I've read up on the Boondockers kit, but I've never actually played with one.

[nakomis0]

Nope its not a Boondockers kit. Its just the bottle. You can't blame me look at this setup.... its pretty bad arse.....


http://www.boondockers.com/graphics/Img120.jpg

My kits is a Holly brand... (NOS) and I installed inbetween the carb and the head. Aimed the jets directly into the piston area.

[267ex]

that is bad @ss!
nakomis0- do you like the outerwear airbox lid cover? I want to get one but i hear the velcro sucks. and you have to rejet right?
nice set up.

[wilkin250r]

That is cool, and I like the bottle location!

Direct port is the best way for maximum power, and I'm familiar with the NOS brand (same as my setup).

The only thing that concerns me now is your hoses. Did you say that your solenoids are inside your airbox? While not too terrible, you might be a little better mounting them closer to the nozzle to decrease your tube length.

The best way to do it (in my opinion) is direct injection of liquid nitrous and fuel into your cylinder. If the nitrous is in liquid form when it enters your cylinder, it will hit your piston and cool it off. This is very good, since it helps to alleviate some of the problems associated with overheating or lean conditions. If your nitrous is cooling your piston, you can push the power a little higher without the danger of overheating or seizing. If your hoses are too long, the nitrous will begin to evaporate inside your hoses and turn to gas form. Shorter hoses make more power. My solenoids are only about six inches from my nozzle.

Like I said, not too terrible, but the closer you can mount your solenoids to your nozzle and make your hoses shorter, the better off you'll be.

[nakomis0]

Is your setup on a 400ex?

Do you have a pic of where you mounted you solenoids or could you explain where?

My fogger (nozzle), is mounted on the left side, just below the plastics.

..and 257ex I actually run an open airbox that pic is straight from boondockers site.

[wilkin250r]

My setup was on a 250X, and I don't have any pictures. In fact, that quad is down to a bare frame right now.

I've never really paid attention to the 400EX keeping nitrous in mind, so I don't know if you can duplicate my installation. My nozzle was installed in the rubber boot between the carb and head, much like yours is I'm sure. My nozzle is pointed straight up toward the gas tank, and my solenoids are mounted on the frame directly under the gas tank.

Obviously, all your tubing should be as short as possible. But if you have to make a trade-off, if you have to choose, make your solenoid-to-nozzle lines as short as possible, and make up the difference with your bottle-to-solenoid lines.