8 Plate Clutch Issue - HELP!

[Quadzilla]

Hey guys,

I recently installed a GT Thunder 8 plate setup (same as the Sparks unit) and I also got the machined back plate and PE billet basket (same as a Hinson). First off, it works. It puts more power to the ground for sure. My issue is that even with the cable adjusted all the way out, it still wants to inch forward when in gear and the lever all the way pulled in. I even bought and installed a new factory Honda clutch cable and still have the same issue. On the clutch cover side, I have it adjusted beyond the factory adjustment in that I have the nut on the left (closest to the clutch arm) on the small second set of threads just before it comes off. I have the lever side adjusted almost all the way out as well.

Could it be that I have the clutch springs cranked down too hard? I did not have a service manual so I did not know how far to crank them down (I do have a torque wrench if somebody can tell me how many ft pounds to crank them). I just cranked them until they stopped (hit the end of the thread on the back plate) but did not try to over tighten them beyond that.

It's at the point where it will almost sit still, but wants to barely inch forward. I cannot put it into neutral while running, I actually have to shut it off to get it into neutral. Help!

[foleyit]

chk pm

[Quadzilla]

Thanks for the pm Fole, but tried that already. Anyone have the torque specs for the clutch spring bolts? Maybe I have them too tight...

[K_Fulk]

Did you have your inner hub machined? If not that could be your problem.

[Quadzilla]

Yes, I have to GT Thunder machined unit. I'm thinking that I have the springs too tight.

[foleyit]

Honda Service Manual calls for 7 ft lbs.

[terko440]

I dont believe there is a torque setting for the clutch spring bolts but I was having the exact same problem with my sparks kit with new Hinson basket but the pressure plate was left alone. I am using the RTC clutch lever. I had it set up for the easiest pull in which once you see how it works you realize there's not as much throw or clutch pull since the easy hole is closer to the pivot point. Mine still does it a little bit even after changing it. Just so you know alot of shops have told me they dont reccomend using a synthetic oil at all but I personally have tried both and didnt notice any difference. Good luck!

[Quadzilla]

Yeah, I have the RTC also. Maybe that's the issue (the lever vs the spring bolts). I have the lever in "pro" mode, meaning the easiest. So putting it in the other setting seemed to help a little Terko?? That's what I'm getting from your post. Thanks!

[cals400ex]

how do you adjust the pull with that lever?

[terko440]

yeah quadzilla it did seem to help. And I know it sucks to do that since that's the reason we bought the lever in the first place right? But I almost thought in the pro mode it was too easy or maybe just so soft it didnt feel like it was moving the clutch well. So I'm thinking with the extra friction of the 8 plate kit and the the RTC not fully disengaging the clutch is what makes it creep. Do you also have a problem getting into to neutral? I did, and like you said, I adjusted every which way with no results. So try your lever my friend. Later

[terko440]

cal, the lever simply has two holes in different locations for you to put the end of the cable into. The "Pro" hole as they call it makes it easier by giving you more leverage of the cable but it's not pulling the cable quite as far in this mode. Maybe it's not a problem with the stock clutch but I changed both the lever and the clutch at the same time so I was stumped at first as to what the problem was with the creeping.

[cals400ex]

my buddy put one of these on his bike and he didn't even mention this to me.

i can tell you after i put in my sparks clutch the bike didn't shift nearly as smooth. also, it wanted to creep with just lettting the lever out a very very small bit. by the way, this was with the stock lever.

[foleyit]

Originally posted by cals400ex
my buddy put one of these on his bike and he didn't even mention this to me.

i can tell you after i put in my sparks clutch the bike didn't shift nearly as smooth. also, it wanted to creep with just lettting the lever out a very very small bit. by the way, this was with the stock lever.

I have the Sparks 8-plate clutch kit, Hinson basket, Hinson Pressure Plate, and using a works lever (haven't installed magura hydraulic) With that setup like Cals mine wanted to creep too.

[Tracy Tenney]

the 8 plate setup is just 250r metals in place of the 400 metals, the fibers are the same on both bikes. The stackup is a little different, the easiest way to fix your problem is to shorten your cable 1/2"

The torque on the springs is NOT your problem. This has nothing to do with the cable adjustment. What needs to be done is have your out clutch hub machined down some more. What this is doing is insetting the plate inwards a little farther. Because, right now you can't pull the outer hub out far enough to dissengage the clutch. If you take a little more off the outer hub too you will have more cable adjustment too. I have the 8 plate clutch in my 400ex w/ the Hinson basket and I do have the Magura Hydraulic clutch too. They work Awesome! Also, I have lots of 8 plate setups that I will sell for $55 shipped. This includes the fibers and steels! The fibers are all like brand new. I accept Paypal and Money Orders. Also, If you have a Magura hydraulic clutch that needs to be bled I will do it for $20 shipped.

Andy ****

Originally posted by Tracy Tenney
the 8 plate setup is just 250r metals in place of the 400 metals, the fibers are the same on both bikes. The stackup is a little different, the easiest way to fix your problem is to shorten your cable 1/2"

Are you sure that 250R and ex fibers are exactly the same? I believe the 250R fibers have more fiber per pad giving you more surface area. the thicknesses are the same.

To fix the problem that you are having quadzilla. the problem has nothing to do with how tight you have the bolts or how strong the springs are. the problem is that with stock plates you didn't have to open them up very far to allow them to spin freely. with adding an extra plate you are still opening them up the same amount overall. But the space between each plate is reduced allowing the plates to catch them selves a bit and want to grap. The clutch lever you are using does not have enough leverage on it to pull the cable enough to open the spacing between each plate enough. Best fix, go out and slip you clutch some and get a little bit of wear on them. this will give you the space you need! Just what I have learned from my experiance with these clutch setups!

I wouldn't recommend going out and slipping your clutches because you might heat them up too much and warp your steels which reverses what you are trying to acomplish. The 8 plate is just barely thicker overall by maybe .010 of an inch therefore making you pull the internal lever more to disengage the clutch. The leverage of your lever has nothing to do with it, it is the length of pull the lever has(pretty much all of them are the same). The PEP lever just repositions the ball on the end of your cable inturn shortening your cable length and helping this situation slightly. But the correct way to go about this is to have your inner clutch hub machined if you have a stock basket or the outer would work w/ a hinson basket. Why do you want the inner hub machined w/ a stock basket? It's because this allows the plates to drop further down in the fingers of the basket giving more surface area for them to grab onto and not break a finger off of your basket.

[xNOILABOYx]

which end would u cut at? isnt there a ball stopper on both ends?

[gearboxer]

this is my first post, but i'm reading cause i had the same problem with new clutch. I called the local honda shop and they told the torque spec was 8 ft/lbs. close enough to the 7 stated earlier. You dont want to crank the springs all the way down, it'll just put undue pressure on the plates and a possible broken screw.(yes broke one). worked for me.