Finally Ready to build my 250R

[bubbagodkin]

Hello,
Ever since I was like 12 I have wanted a built trx250R that was mint. I finally found the quad in march after passing on a quite a few and ended up getting a really nice 88.
So now I'm ready to start modifying the the chassis to make it the ultimate play bike. I want to make the front end 4 inchs wider in total, or do I want to make it 6inchs wider?
I'm not sure what brand to get as there are so many.
And I want to some nice triple rate shocks I'm thinking probably some works triple rates w/rezzy's?
And I was told to stay away from durablue axles?
Also where is a place that has good prices and I won't have to worry about gettin jacked around?
Can anyone help me out I want to get my baby wider and ready to go prey on some of these newer thumpers
:devil:

Thanks
Bubba

[bubbagodkin]

Are long travel a-arms worth it?

[Chanman420q]

get the +3 a arms, i wish i had, less bump steer and ull be just as wide as +2s with 4:1 rims. and i suggest getting either elka ecconnoes or TCS suspention as there only 1-200 more and worth the extra cash. and id get the LSR axle. warrenty just as good as RPMs and almost as strong.

[TC426EX]

You want a +3 front end... The +4 pro trax and all that is for the Laeger Narrow frame model for that bike. How MINT are you trying to make this thing? If you wanna go LT, I would look into the Laeger's ( they make a standard LT arm too, not just the Pro trax). I have used Laeger on all my bikes and have never had ONE problem with them. Laeger and Hondas go together like bread and butter. Any top rate A arm would do great for you. Dont go cheap like those crummy ASR's some people run. If you are building a play bike you might want to consider just going with a standard travel front end if you are on a budget. LT costs more to do, and a standard travel setup with good triple rate shocks should be fine. Im running a standard travel PEP/Laeger front end and I clear some burly stuff with it, and race on it all the time. Good luck building your bike, get the wallet ready, it's sure to cost more than you think once you get into it! Oh yeah, and definitely get the LSR axle over the durablue...

[quadsquadron221]

if you go long travel and need some shocks i have some like new quad rate elkas fully adjustable with remote rez.

[Florida400EX]

If you have AIM, IM me, my screenname is TeamECCrm125. If you don't have it, you can download it at www.aim.com I can get you set-up very nicely.

[bubbagodkin]

Hey Guys,
I just totally stripped the R today right down to the bare frame took me about 4 hr's and I labeled everything. I order Ricky Stator A-arms +2 for $495, and a set of front stainless steel brake lines. I then called Esr and ordered a Keihin Airstryker 38mm with a kit to get rid of the airbox.
I hope TCS is open on sat's so I can order a full set of TCS zero preload triples w/rezzys, and their new tcs dual rate rear.
On monday my new air compressor is going to be ready and I'm going to start sandblasting everything, I'm thinking of sandblasting the cases and trying to polish them but not sure how I'm going to cap off the intake and exhaust openings?
Also I have a link on getting a new OEM honda seat cover, they have been discontinued.
Would anyone else be intrested in one?

Thanks
Bubba

[quadsquadron221]

why dont you try a good paint stripper on the motor cases. I bead blasted mine and left them on the r i rode last year and that worket pretty good. But i have polished out sand blast before and i dont know if you want to spend hours upon hours trying to smooth it back out let alone getting it to a mirror finish. On my practice r last year i used paint stripper and was very happy with the results its not mirror finish but it looks really nice. On my crf im riding now i took the motor out used aluminum wheel cleaner and a small brass brush on it and it really looks nice. I kinda shined it up and it really looks good . If you wanted a good looking finish thats alot easier to take care of than polished. Try using paint stripper then aluminum wheel cleaner and brass brush. It also keeps sand out of where it doesnt need to be. Just a suggestion

[LilDacktyle]

quadsquadron221, how much would you sell your long travel shocks for?

[bubbagodkin]

If I order a axcalibur axle do I have to order a new carrier and hubs and stuff in order for the axle to work on my quad?

[rollie]

C&D racing




:macho

[TC426EX]

Originally posted by bubbagodkin
If I order a axcalibur axle do I have to order a new carrier and hubs and stuff in order for the axle to work on my quad?

No, the axle will slide into the stock carrier and use the stock hubs just fine... Youll want to eventually upgrade that carrier though, it has a very short shelf life under abuse...

[skidaddyjr]

While you buying a lonestar get a antifade brake nut too, It;ll save you a lot wrenching on the axle nut.The axle nut ,rear bearings ,sprockets are the main maintinance parts on a built R.
If you dont already have a built motor powervalve cylinders probably 300 or larger if you want to suck some 450's sideways!

[Live2Ride300]

Originally posted by TC426EX
No, the axle will slide into the stock carrier and use the stock hubs just fine... Youll want to eventually upgrade that carrier though, it has a very short shelf life under abuse...

A nice billet carrier with either dual row or tapered bearings would work great with that axle.

You might want to check out www.rriders.com for more "R" info.

:blah: