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ZSK
05-13-2004, 09:35 PM
Are there any suprises I need to be aware of? Drain them, install, refill, and bleed about it?

JOEX
05-13-2004, 10:28 PM
Did mine a few moths ago, fairly simple. Bleeding them is a little tedious but not hard.

ZSK
05-13-2004, 10:29 PM
One person job except for the bleeding? Sounds good.

JOEX
05-13-2004, 11:00 PM
Bled mine by myself;) :cool:

300exOH
05-14-2004, 07:06 AM
You can pick up a one person bleeder kit from places like Autozone. I think they are around $20. I used it on mine and it only took about a half hour to bleed. It's much easier than pumping the lever by hand for hours. Also don't tighten all the bolts until you have it all together otherwise the lines may not bend the direction you want. Make sure you use DOT 4 fluid and not DOT 3.

redrunner
05-14-2004, 02:26 PM
I was able to use a small diameter plastic hose over the bleeder and suck the fluid through, It goes so slow that you can see when it start draining into the clear plastic hose. ( yeah my buddy said he had on of the hand bleeders but he was wrong). Any way it worked pretty good when you are in a pinch. From that point just bleed them normal until the lever is firm. There is a huge difference in feel when you stop, just a couple of fingers on the lever works good now.

Doibugu2
05-14-2004, 02:34 PM
IF you get teh 3 piece fronts, one side is longer than the other.

Other than that they are pretty easy.

I would recommend letting the bike sit overnight and rebleed them again. Takes less pumping that way. The air seems to move itself up.

redroost85
05-14-2004, 03:08 PM
Just a thought, I don't know if you already have the lines or not, but I have read many times on here about guys wishing they went with stock length lines. They ordered +2 lines thinking +2 arms = +2 lines right? I guess the lines come a bit longer than they should.

Just a thought though bud.:)

redrunner
05-14-2004, 05:13 PM
Originally posted by redroost85
Just a thought, I don't know if you already have the lines or not, but I have read many times on here about guys wishing they went with stock length lines. They ordered +2 lines thinking +2 arms = +2 lines right? I guess the lines come a bit longer than they should.

Just a thought though bud.:)

I think that might be a good idea, I think they make them for +2 to +4 by the way mine look. Too long!!;)

ZSK
05-14-2004, 09:24 PM
Went on easy. Even I could figure it out LOL. I ordered stock length for a 300ex, even though I'm running 400ex a-arms. Fit the same as the stockers. The rear was about 2 inches too long but the way I routed it, that took up the slack. Front bled fine but I can't get the rear to come around. There's no pedal feel whatsoever but when I open the valve fluid comes out. Maybe a little air still trapped?

JOEX
05-14-2004, 10:39 PM
Originally posted by cleanshave300ex
Went on easy. Even I could figure it out LOL. I ordered stock length for a 300ex, even though I'm running 400ex a-arms. Fit the same as the stockers. The rear was about 2 inches too long but the way I routed it, that took up the slack. Front bled fine but I can't get the rear to come around. There's no pedal feel whatsoever but when I open the valve fluid comes out. Maybe a little air still trapped?
The rear was the easier one for me. With the added length you have, there might be an air bubble trapped somewhere.

I don't know if this will work, just my theory...... Try to get the line situated so there aren't any high or low spots, no rollercoaster action. Keep a gradual slope from the master cylinder to the caliper. It may take awhile to get bubble out of there.

400exdad
05-16-2004, 08:05 AM
Originally posted by cleanshave300ex
There's no pedal feel whatsoever but when I open the valve fluid comes out. Maybe a little air still trapped?

JoeEX is right, prolly some trapped air in the line where you routed the extra. You could take the caliper off, put something between the pads... (to take the place of the rotor), lay the caliper upright on the ground and get the air out of it that way. Chances are, when you straighten out the line and have the master cylinder at the highest point the air will work its way out on its own.