Breaking in fresh motor/adding oil/idling?

[NacsMXer]

Hi everyone, I got to thinking one day about my rebuilt motor when I break it in. Since theres no oil in the engine, when I add it to the tank I need to let it idle for a few minutes so the oil can circulate so I can finish topping the tank off. But I know that idling is the worst thing for a fresh engine because it wont let the rings seal properly. I want to seal my rings and break in the new cam by bein aggressive on it and varying the rpms. Would letting it idle for a few minutes so I can top off the oil be bad for my motor? Thank you very much.

[Aallron]

Try this link and see what you think...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm

[K_Fulk]

There should be some oil on the cam when he installs it.

If it makes you feel any better you can take the rockercover off before you start it. To check and make sure. If you have a service manual it will tell you where to add it.

[hawiianpwr]

When you put in your cam you need to put Molybdenum disulfide oil on it. You can get it at any auto store. Its a sticky red oil so it stays where it needs to be when you start it up.

[hawiianpwr]

Also while the topic is up. What break-in process do you guys prefer. I've heard both ways. The "way the manual states" and the other "Ride it like you would normally"

What do you think?

[cals400ex]

i say take it out and when it gets up to temp bring it up to 8 grand or so in 2nd or 3rd gear and declerate each time back down to a slower speed. do this a couple time. others disagree, but i want my rings to seat properly. about 80% of the break-in will be done in the first 20 miles or so.

[nakomis0]

I'd let it idle but i'd do the breakin they say for the cam, pertty much just keeping the idle up so it throws oil on the cam. Very the speeds.

And the best breakin is the Hot / cold cycles.

Let it idle till warm / then let it cool

Ride it gently till very warm / then let it cool.

Same thing again and again riding it harder each step, and always go through the gears and very the rpms. 3-4 hot cool cycles and IMO its good to go.

[Atreyu]

Heres the link to what I used:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[BIGRED400]

I broke in my 416 this way and she ROCKS........make sure you break it in in with a good regular oil ,I used Honda, anything with a good detergent to clean it out because of break-in
(non-synthetic), metal and parts are trying to wear where they need to be...put at least 10 hour's or so and then I went to
http://amsoil.com/products/amf.htm
I love this break-in procedure............I used to rebuild Chevy small blocks in the early 80's.........procedures were different then along with engine clearances.........gotta change with technology and progress if it works and this one does for me anyway........BTW your engine should be a good thumper with your listed mods:D

[NacsMXer]

Yeah I myself and Laz at GT Thunder believe in the ride it like you do normally (motoman) break in procedure. I did the whole "step" break in on my motor when I did my last 440 with all the cool downs and warm ups I think its listed on Duncan's website. I asked Laz about this and he told me that the warm up/cool downs are rather unneccesary. So I know how to break it in properly, but to go back to my original question; will it be ok to let the motor idle for the few minutes necessary so that the oil in the tank can fill into the motor so I can top the tank off to the proper oil level. Or will this idling be bad initially before I go rip and seal my rings? If there was already some oil in the crank it would be a different story, but I have a "dry" engine that needs to be filled, idled for 5 mins according to the service manual, then topped off again. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make my original question more clear and I think people just misunderstood my question. Thanks

[skemp]

It isn't really that vital to let it warm up for 5 minutes then top it off. It won't take more than 30 seconds for the system to be full, so don't worry about letting it idle for 5 minutes. Just let the oil circulate, top it off, and then ride it.

[NacsMXer]

OK thanks skemp. I always wondered how long it takes for the oil to circulate because I blew my 440 this way last summer. I waited like a little over a minute for it to circulate then I topped it off. When I busted both my intake valves at the track I took the dipstick out and there was like no oil in the tank. I immediately thought that I didnt let the engine idle long enough when before I topped the tank off, making me think I had a full tank when it really wasnt the case. Are you sure about 30 seconds to circulate the oil, ive never personally let it idle for 5 mins like the manual says, but I thought I busted my motor because I didnt follow the manual. Thanks.

[BIGRED400]

As far as idling , some cam manufacturer's recommend keeping it above 3 grand for 20 minutes for cam breakin,if you started out with a good hi idle 2-3 grand just a little while to circulate the oil to"purge" the system , making sure everything was primed and oiled thruout it should tell you correct oil level,do you have an oversize oil tank???? I remember my 416 I just calculated what I needed and run it at 3 grand for twenty minutes and then checked it, years ago I used to prime the oil pump on the chevy engines on a stand.I've read where you don't want to choke it anymore than needed also ,they say the extra gas (RICH)long for periods initially will score the walls and it will stay there............hope this helps with what little I know......I did everything on mine except the machine work, it still is holding together thankfully:D I would talk to the cam manufacturer and see what he says I think that's more crucial than the bearings ,Idle wise, but it all is important

[PhilMoore]

I just did my 416 with a hotcam. I aimed it out the garage. Started it up and took off. The Hot cam sheet said to rev it to 3000 minimum and vary the RPM. I don't have a tach, so I just kept it going above idle. I rode it for 30 minutes (Hot Cam instructions) I would wind it up in third to what felt like about half throttle, then let off and let the compression wind the motor down. Then down shift to second and let the compression keep winding down. I had a lot of backfiring and popping, but near the end of 30 minutes, all the backfiring/popping went away. After the 30 minute time, I changed the oil and filter. I just used Valvoline 10w40. For installation, I used that RED stringy stick assembly lube from Champion Auto. It is Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube Item # 81950

I ran the next fresh oil and filter for about 2 hours last weekend. Then changed the oil and filter again today. I put regular Honda 10W40 (non synthetic) in today. I tried the synthetic blend a few years ago, and got some bad clutch chatter, so I only use the regular oil now-a-days.

I pulled the cam lid off and checked the headbolt torque this morning. The cam and rockers look ok. I did install new rockers with the cam.

I had to put a new battery in too. The old original battery (over 5 years old) would start the stock motor great. But it would just barely start the 416. The new battery fires it right off instantly.

I am going on an extended trail ride tomorrow with a group, so hopefully all will be well!

[NacsMXer]

Thanks for the info Philmoore, Im probably going to use some regular petroleum oil for the first two oil changes and then switch to the Mobil 1 red cap 15w50 full synthetic that I just bought. Its supposed to be really good and long lasting oil but I haven't used it before.

you will love the red cap...its the best oil

[BIGRED400]

If you use their gaskets , I was told it is not neccessary to re-torque, Everyone is different, I break-in without load on motor at first..........mine smoked like a BBQ joint for 20 minutes,everything was figuring out where it wanted to be, and man did it get hot but after that it was ok, whatever works for you:D