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Chanman420q
04-10-2004, 09:04 PM
i went to move the ground on the prodesign kill switch to a better spot. i had it on the hanldebar clamp bolt, and i moved it to the bolt holding the oil cooler on. now the switch wont work. i moved it back to the handlebar clamp were i originally had it grounded and it still wont work. is my switch toast? this ever happen to anyone else?

airheadedduner
04-10-2004, 09:41 PM
The one on my R is doing the same thing. I just tossed it. Seems like I only get about 2 years out of one. You might try cleaning it.

Chanman420q
04-11-2004, 01:29 AM
Originally posted by airheadedduner
The one on my R is doing the same thing. I just tossed it. Seems like I only get about 2 years out of one. You might try cleaning it.

this one is about 6 months old

Chanman420q
04-11-2004, 06:28 PM
bump

greghall
04-11-2004, 06:45 PM
Originally posted by Chanman420q
i went to move the ground on the prodesign kill switch to a better spot. i had it on the hanldebar clamp bolt, and i moved it to the bolt holding the oil cooler on. now the switch wont work. i moved it back to the handlebar clamp were i originally had it grounded and it still wont work. is my switch toast? this ever happen to anyone else? They get dirt in them clean it out & snap it a few times,contacts get corroded it happens when its not used in awile I found this out once at a tech inspection at a race.

Chanman420q
04-11-2004, 06:51 PM
i cut the ground to make the wire shorter, would that of done it?:huh

440exwlspankyou
04-12-2004, 04:44 AM
Cutting the wire will not hurt the switches function as long as the connection is made correctly afterwards. Any wiring on a quad should have heat-shrink tubing, waterproof connectors, or good electrical tape at the connections. A quad bounces around alot and is exposed to the elements. These things are bad for electrical connections. If made poorly -->THEY WILL FAIL!!! This is particularly important for kill switches -just as a safety factor.

Pappy
04-12-2004, 06:04 AM
Originally posted by Chanman420q
i moved it to the bolt holding the oil cooler on.

the oil cooler mount has 2 rubber bushings and may not be allowing a good contact for a ground.

KY Woods Rider
04-12-2004, 07:30 AM
:huh You do realize that the stock bar clamps aren't steel don't you, and being so, they aren't a good place to be trying to ground a kill switch.

I certainly have seen kill switches quit working all of a sudden, but before you give up on it, find a place where a bolt holds a steel object to the frame and try grounding it there. Also, since you've been messing around with it and may have pulled on some of the wiring, make sure the other connection is still hooked up too.

seatec
04-12-2004, 08:01 AM
Originally posted by KY Woods Rider
:huh You do realize that the stock bar clamps aren't steel don't you, and being so, they aren't a good place to be trying to ground a kill switch.

I certainly have seen kill switches quit working all of a sudden, but before you give up on it, find a place where a bolt holds a steel object to the frame and try grounding it there. Also, since you've been messing around with it and may have pulled on some of the wiring, make sure the other connection is still hooked up too.

Well, chan is implying with his first post that it DID work before he moved it otherwise he wouldnt have said "And now it doesnt work anymore"

I dont think you can short anything out on the pro design. i'd clean it or put a multi meter on it and see if you get a closed circuit.

Chanman420q
04-12-2004, 10:35 AM
Yeah the Switch worked good on the Handlebar clamp. But it looked like a ****ty job, so i moved it to the oil cooler, and no go, moved it back and still no go:mad:

I tihnk it is a closed circuit.. but im not very good with wiring. When i brush the end of the wire on the clamp where i had it grounded and push the start button i do see sparks.

when i do figure this out, where should i ground it?

JOEX
04-12-2004, 09:55 PM
This where I grounded mine too....
Others have it wired into the factory switch ground wire, I think it's the dark green, check your wiring diagram first!:)

andrew360
04-13-2004, 12:37 AM
Originally posted by Chanman420q
Yeah the Switch worked good on the Handlebar clamp. But it looked like a ****ty job, so i moved it to the oil cooler, and no go, moved it back and still no go:mad:

I tihnk it is a closed circuit.. but im not very good with wiring. When i brush the end of the wire on the clamp where i had it grounded and push the start button i do see sparks.

when i do figure this out, where should i ground it?

A tether kill switch is what you'd call a "normally closed" circuit, in that when it's in it's "normal" or "operational" state, it allows the electrical system to function as it should; when the connection is broken, or "opened," it kills the electrical system. Hope that helps some. Go to a hardware or auto parts store and get some electrical contact cleaner. Hook the switch up either as you had it or as joex has his, and then spray out the connection (plug) really well; use a q-tip and wipe it out good, then lightly blow it out with compressed air, or tech-spray canned air. Wipe a little vaseline or spray some WD-40 on the male end of the kill switch plug to resist corrosion. Hope it works out for you.